Category Archives: Equine & Canine Osteopathy

Caring for the Injured Horse Part I

By Chris Bates, Osteopath (DO), Animal Therapist and LCAO Contributing Author

Caring for horses is a fun and rewarding experience. However, as with any living creature, accidents and injuries can happen. It’s common to hear about horses coming in from grazing with cuts, lumps, and bumps and feeling worse for wear after charging around a little too enthusiastically.

Even the stable can carry risks if the horse slips or knocks themselves on something. It’s very important to have an understanding of what to do to treat minor injuries and when to call the Vet.

‍

Common Horse Injuries

If horses are turned out to graze in company then there can be “disagreements” between them from time to time even if they normally get on well. Bites and kicks from other horses can range from very minor to serious injuries.

Horses have very well-developed body language and most of the time, posturing is enough to establish understanding, but if this doesn’t do the trick then feet can fly. Horses will sometimes break the skin whether they are shod or barefoot.

Small lacerations from kicks can often be treated with good cleaning and antiseptic topical treatments but there are things to look out for. If the wound is bleeding heavily then veterinary attention is needed as there may be damage to blood vessels and stitches may be required.

Wounds located over joints are also cause for concern; if the wound becomes infected then the proximity to a joint can lead to the joint capsule becoming septic and resulting in serious damage to the articulation.

When the wound is over a joint, look for swelling, heat, and lameness, you may also see a straw-colored liquid coming from the wound which might be synovial fluid (the fluid contained within the joint capsule).

If the joint is hot and swollen and the horse is showing signs of lameness then consult the vet as a priority; depending on the details you give them, they may suggest running cold water over the area to remove debris from the wound and reduce pain and inflammation.

 

 

Puncture wounds from a nail or small objects can be hard to spot due to their size and yet can be very dangerous. Often a puncture wound will close again after the foreign object is removed or falls out, however, this can trap bacteria in the wound and lead to infection.

If the wound is small or has closed, the first signs are often seen at the stage of infection. These would be heat, swelling, redness, pain, and possible lameness. Again, consult the vet, they may leave you with advice on poulticing the site which can draw out infectious materials and assist in wound healing.

 

 

What You Should Have In Your Horse First Aid Kit

It’s a good idea to have some basic first aid supplies for injuries like these. Here are some first aid items that are useful:

• Clean cotton wool – Great for cleaning small wounds with clean warm water.
• Antiseptic ointment or cream – Always ensure these are within date and sealed well after use.
• Poultice – Many are available from tack stores and from your vet and can often be used wet or dry depending on the vet’s advice.
• Vet Wrap / self-adhesive bandage – Used to keep dressings in place and clean.
• Scissors – Bandage scissors are designed to remove dressings without risking further injuries.
• Heavy-duty tape – This is often used to cover hoof poultices and keep them clean.
• Salt – Salt can be mixed with water to use in wound care and even as a dental rinse following injuries or dental treatments.
• Thermometer – It can be very useful in some conditions to assess the horse’s vital signs over a period of time or to take their temperature if you suspect infection. Normal range is 37.2°C to 38.5°C (99.0°F to 101.4°F)
• Diapers – These are great as a base layer over a wound and under the other bandaging. You can apply creams to the diaper before putting it on if the horse is particularly sore. They are also absorbent, so soak up any fluid that may be coming from the wound, and are also less likely to stick. They also provide some padding which helps protect a sensitive area. Just make sure to cut the elastic edges to avoid creating any unwanted pressure points.

 

This is not a complete list but a good tack store can also provide advice on additional items and their uses. Vets should always be able to give you advice on the most suitable products for your animal’s condition.

‍

Spotting Lameness

Recognizing lameness is a science in itself. It is not uncommon to have other horse owners offer their opinions.

Unfortunately, walking or trotting up a lame horse a number of times until a non-professional has spotted something is often doing more harm than good. If you think that your horse is uncomfortable or moving differently then it is best to ask your Vet for advice.

The obvious signs of lameness are:

• Avoidance of weight bearing (standing or moving)
• Unequal strides
• Stride deviation – not tracking in a straight line
• Nodding of the head to shift weight off of the affected limb

Hopefully, you’ve found this helpful. I’ll be back in the coming weeks with part II.

 

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

‍

Following Freezing Point

By Siun Griffin, Equine Physiotherapist and Community Manager at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

‍

In this LCAO exclusive, International Diploma in Equine Osteopathy (Int’l DipEO) student, Randy Gootzeit, talks about her journey with her racehorse Freezing Point. She kindly took the time to answer some questions and share what issues Freezing Point had when she got him and how he has progressed over time with consistent treatment and dedicated teamwork with the horse’s trainer.

Why did you decide to begin the Equine Osteopathy program?

I like the idea of taking something back to improve the quality of movement in Thoroughbred racehorses.

‍

How and when did Freezing Point come into your life?

A trainer I trust had looked for us to privately purchase a horse already racing, but there’s nothing like asking to buy a horse that suddenly makes the owner increase its price.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This led us to start looking at auctions of 2yo and older horses in training. We viewed more than 2000 videos over 4 months and 3 sales. I got outbid on our few selections; all but Hip #954 at the Ocala Breeders’ Sale in June 2022, Freezing Point.

His barn name is Snowball because we thought we had a snowball’s chance in hell of getting him due to his pedigree and workout speed of 10.3 sec for 1/8 mile.

Freezing Point is by Frosted, who ran fourth to American Pharoah in the Kentucky Derby and second in the Belmont Stakes. He set a stakes record for a mile the following year at Belmont, 1:32.73, and won and placed in other grade stakes before being retired. Freezing Point is from his 3rd crop to race. As of this month, Frosted is #3 on the list of third-crop sire earnings.

His dam, Happy Motoring, was a nonwinner in 6 starts, but she has produced two other winners so far.

When you first got Freezing Point what issues did you notice?

Freezing Point was raised to be sold at auction. As auction horses have to run at least 1/8 mile at speed, this could have had negative physical effects on him. Freezing Point was posting 10-second eighths as a young juvenile. He could have outrun his physical development.

We had seen that Freezing Point had high splints on all four legs. The splints happened really early in his training. These were well set and cold, and didn’t interfere with the suspensory apparatus.

He also has a left front cannon bone that is rotated laterally off the crooked knee, characteristic of sons and grandsons of Tapit (Frosted’s sire). The left front suspensory ligament is prominent at the medial ankle. He wings that leg at the trot, canter, and gallop. His action was smooth at all gaits, and his legs were cold.

How did you approach these issues and make a plan for the horse’s treatment?

Joe began to take him for long walks prior to training at the trot and gallop and followed with long walks (he got 6-11 miles of walking each day, besides his track training).

He was cooled out with ice water bandages to forestall inflammation and was done up on all four legs with a sweat of Furacin, DMSO, and alcohol. Recently, he only gets done up in front. This remains his routine.

Myofascial mobilization per Graston Technique Equine therapy was limited to 1-2 sessions each month from July through November. I practiced OAB palpation each month, as demonstrated by Prof. McGregor in the LCAO clinical unit.

What changes did you notice over the course of treatments?

When I saw him in early July, I noted that his thoracic trapezius looked like it was being pinched by the saddle, and he was a little tender to palpation at the thoracolumbar junction.

I replaced it with one with a wider half-tree soft back. I did some Graston Technique Equine therapy, a form of instrument-assisted soft tissue mobilization, through his neck, chest, shoulders, back, and hindquarters.

 

 

 

‍

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was some fibrosis in his pectorals and biceps muscles on both sides and tension through his paraspinal

He received three treatments over 5 days, and this was followed up with manual stretching. He was tight on the right front into full knee extension at first.

July 5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By the time he got to the races in September 2022, he had full ROM at all limbs, back extension, and neck and head ROM. He loves to lie down and nap, and he stretches when he gets up.

His second race in mid-October was the first time he was pressed to run at top speed, due to an error in jockey judgment. His rectus abdominis and transverse abdominal muscles became palpably more massive after that effort.

He won the next race easily, and we gave him 6 weeks off to mature and recover from a solid year of training. He has an interesting way of going- he lengthens his stride to speed up, rather than quickening cadence.

He is currently back in training and is about 4-5 weeks away from a return to racing. His chest, shoulders, crest, and quarters have filled out. He’s a happy horse, his legs are cold, he has a full range of motion everywhere, and we consider ourselves lucky. I used the opportunity at my last visit to practice the OAB range of motion demonstrated by Prof. McGregor in the LCAO clinical unit.

As of this interview, Freezing Point is nominated for the American Triple Crown Series.

Randy recently purchased another racehorse – War Room. We will follow his journey in an upcoming series to be published in the coming weeks.

Click twice on the video below to watch Freezing Point owner, Randy Gootzeit performs Osteopathic Articular Balancing technique on the horse’s forelimb.

 

 

For more information on the International Diploma in Equine Osteopathy (Int’l DipEO) program, click here

‍Modern osteopathic techniques used today in animal manual therapy are attributed to the teachings of Stuart McGregor, D.O., a U.K.-based osteopath and Director of Clinical Studies at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO).

Building on his vast knowledge and experience working with animals since 1983, Stuart has developed OSTEOPATHIC ARTICULAR BALANCING (OAB), a safe and effective treatment method rooted in classical osteopathy.

 

1. OAB is a structural approach to osteopathic assessment, diagnosis, and treatment of many health conditions in equines and canines.
2. The OAB method is a classical, long-lever osteopathic technique that uses gentle mobilization and manipulation to both assess and treat joints, muscles, and fascia with no side effects or adverse reactions.  
3. The OAB method is at the core of any osteopathic treatment. It offers the therapist a protocol or an organized search pattern to find dysfunction and treat it. 
4. OAB helps with common injuries, such as strained tendons and ligaments, and more complex conditions, i.e., arthritis, joint stiffness, and compromised mobility.
5. Osteopathic preparation and treatment optimize performance and competitive longevity in equine and canine sports. OAB treatment prepares tissues before the competition and aids muscle recovery following exertion, preventing and minimizing the incidence of more severe injury. 
6. OAB is highly effective in preserving the quality of life for an aging animal by helping reduce joint pain, strengthen the musculoskeletal system, and increase overall mobility. 
7. Prof. McGregor is the only osteopath who has taught the OAB method to hundreds of animal health professionals, osteopaths, and the veterinary community for 40 years around the world.

‍

Biopsychosocial Health in Dogs

By Chris Bates, DO, Animal Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

When we look at the health of a patient as an Osteopath, there is more to it than assessing the animal for musculoskeletal anomalies and rubbing backs. Osteopathy has always been a system that considers all of the possible external and internal factors that impact health states.  Patients in Osteopathy are seen as a triune of mind, body, and spirit (Still, 1899/2018); the spirit aspect has much been forgotten in modern Osteopathy (particularly in the human realm) but still plays an equal part in health and wellbeing.

 

 

Dogs are very intuitive and emotional creatures. This is something we love about our four-legged companions, but it is also a possible reason for disturbances in their health and well-being. We have all experienced what it’s like to feel like we are getting sick after a particularly stressful week at work or to get aches and pains following an emotional event such as a funeral. These reactions are completely normal and as a result of the interdependent relationship between our minds and bodies. Dogs are very susceptible to emotional change due to their extremely well-developed empathy and attunement to body language.  Dogs evolved close familial bonds and emotional intelligence as an effective survival mechanism and this has made the domestication of dogs so successful and rewarding for both animals and humans (Adam Miklosi, 2016). The problem with any sort of sensitivity is the possibility for something to create a negative outcome via this perceptive pathway.

Let us consider a hypothetical case.

A dog and owner come to see you as an Osteopath and the owner explains that their dog (a 3-year-old Labrador male) has been walking wide behind and their hindquarters seem to stray to the left instead of tracking neatly into the line of the front. Perhaps the most noticeable sign you see as the dog enters your clinic is that they are clearly very nervous and displays a typical fear posture when greeting you.

 

 

It is then important to consider what that dog’s posture is like when at home or anywhere else. We would question the owner as to the dog’s usual behaviors and what their interactions are like with people and other animals. Through the case history, we discover that the dog is a rescue and had a very troubled and abusive past before the owners got him. The owner says how he is a very nervous and frightened dog and often shows the posture we see in the clinic.

On physical examination, the dog displays a reduced range of motion in spinal extension in the lumbar region (lower back), reduced hip extension (left more than right), and a sensitive reaction to palpation over the superior stifle region (just above the knee). If we take a look at the picture above of the fear posture and imagine being in this position consistently, then we can certainly see why areas of the body would try to accommodate the posture and alter their structure and function. The lowering of the hind end increases the flexion of the hip and stifle joints, the hip flexors will shorten and neurologically “retune” to maintain that position with less physical effort. The highly tendinous tissue of the quadricep muscles located just above the stifle joint will be stretched regularly and therefore become more reactive to touch.

The spinal region becomes really complex and the fearful flexion of the spine then alters all the other ranges and movements of the spine too. As renowned Osteopath Harrison Fryette (1980) explains in his three spinal laws, flexion of the spine will alter the available range in other planes of movement. The dog may well have begun to rotate and side bend the spine resulting in the non-tracking hind end due to the regular flexion and resultant tension in the spinal flexors and abdominal muscles.

So, we begin to see the trail of clues leading us back down the pathway of these symptoms and come to a hypothesis that the dog’s emotional state has certainly a large part to play in the posture and possible resulting discomfort they feel. Although this is just a hypothetical case, it’s easy to see the basic principles of the biopsychosocial approach to health. This is one of the many things that make Osteopathy such a fascinating and rewarding career, it is like being a holistic detective and seeking the clues to your hypothesis. Obviously, unless you are a qualified behaviorist, this case would also need a referral to behavior specialists to resolve the root cause of this particular problem. As long as the behavior is not dangerous and you have risk assessed if the animal is safe to treat then Osteopathic treatment can still take place; in fact, the resolution of physical manifestations will in turn impact the emotional state of the animal. We know that one part of the triune cannot exist and function without the other and so while we are not treating it behaviorally, we will undoubtedly have an effect upon the mind’s state by interacting with the physical state.

 

To find out more about the history and principles of Osteopathic practice, click here.

 

References:

Ádám Miklósi. (2016). Dog behavior, evolution, and cognition (1st ed.). Oxford University Press.

Fryette, H. H. (1980). Principles of osteopathic technique. Carmel, Calif., Academy Of Applied Osteopathy.

Still, A. T. (2018). Philosophy Of Osteopathy. (Original work published 1899)

What is Osteopathy?

By Prof. Stuart McGregor, DO, Animal Osteopath, Director of Clinical Studies at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

 

Osteopathy is an established, recognized system of diagnosis and treatment that lays its main emphasis on the structural integrity of the body. It is distinctive in the fact that it recognizes much of the pain and disability we suffer stems from abnormalities in the function of the body structure as well as damage caused to it by disease.

Osteopathy uses many of the diagnostic procedures used in conventional medicine assessment and diagnosis. Its main strength, however, lies in the unique way the patient is assessed from a mechanical, functional, and postural standpoint and the manual methods of treatment applied to suit the needs of the individual patient.

What will I do as an animal osteopath?

An animal osteopath treats animals using natural manual therapy techniques. Most animal osteopaths treat horses and dogs, also seeing other companion animals also such as cats and rabbits. Some specialist animal osteopaths treat farm animals, exotic, and zoo animals.

Most of the things that osteopaths treat are physical and structural conditions, helping to relieve pain and discomfort, often involving rehabilitation after injury. Osteopaths are very adept at finding and treating the causes of pain and discomfort.

Many animals that perform sport or rigorous physical exercise, such as racehorses, show jumping horses and ponies, and working dogs, benefit from a visit by an animal osteopath. Many performance horses and dogs are also helped in their preparation for racing or competition.

Communication is important, as it is frequently necessary to communicate with veterinarians and other animal healthcare professionals. Animal osteopaths commonly work alongside vets.

Osteopathy for animals is becoming very popular among animal trainers and owners. It is a fast-growing profession.

What is Osteopathic Articular Balancing?

Osteopathic Articular Balancing (OAB) is a branch of osteopathy involving the gentle manipulation and mobilization of joints and muscles. It is a structural approach to osteopathic diagnosis and treatment.

It includes articulation and mobilization of all joints of the body including the legs, shoulders, hips, neck, back, and pelvis. Body Adjustment helps reduce stiffness in muscles and joints and helps maintain flexibility. It helps to improve blood supply and drainage from all tissues and helps maintain nerve supply from the vertebral joints. It can be used both before and after exercise. OBA helps promote physical health, improving performance and helping to reduce the incidence of injury.

Based on sound principles of biomechanics, it forms a strong foundation for a treatment and rehabilitation program.

 

For more information on how you can become an Animal Osteopath, clickhere

‍

‍

By Siun Griffin, Equine Physiotherapist and Community Manager at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

Following on from Chris Bates’s article, Saving at the Stables – Horse Ownership in an Economic Crisis, here is another way to help you save money – reproofing horse blankets.

Many of us, myself included, tend to replace our horse’s outdoor blankets when they get dirty or are no longer fully waterproof. This is a quick fix, but definitely not the most economical.

By reproofing the blanket we might get another year or more out of it for a fraction of the cost. It may take a little time and advance planning, but it’s fairly simple.

Here are the steps to follow to get your horse blanket back in top shape.

Step 1 – Wash your blanket.

A clean blanket will get the best results. If you use a blanket washing service, they might even include re-waterproofing as an add-on. Get this done in the spring and your blanket will be ready to go when the cold comes back. This is the easiest way to reproof.

If you don’t use a service or the one you use doesn’t have this option wash your horse blanket the best you can and let it dry fully. Try to use a soap designed for horse blankets; many equestrian brands offer this. Never use fabric softener as this will end up damaging the fabric.

Step 2 – Choose Your Waterproofing Product

There are a number of different waterproofing products available that you can get from your favourite tack shop. Nikwax is a popular product, but you can find sprays as well.

Step 3 – Apply The Waterproofer

To use a washing product like Nikwax, place your clean blanket in the washing machine with no other products. It doesn’t have to be dry, so you can do this step after your cleaning wash.

Follow the cycle and temperature instructions on the product label.

For some washing products you don’t have to use a washing machine, you can also do it by hand. Fill a large enough, clean container with warm water and the recommended amount of waterproofing liquid. Wearing rubber gloves, mix it in.

Then place your clean blanket into the water, moving it around, so it is fully covered in the mixture. Leave it to soak for around 2 hours. Finally, rinse the blanket and hang to dry.

Another option for washing products is to sponge it on the blanket by hand.

The other type of common product is spray-on. Hang your blanket outside. It is a good idea to wear a facemask and gloves when doing this as the fumes can be pretty unpleasant and hard to get off your hands.

Using a spray product is time-consuming as you should add multiple coats to get the best results, but it’s necessary to leave 24 hours between coats.

A Few Blanket Care Tips

In addition to reproofing your horse rug, there are a few things you can do to help extend its lifespan.

• Don’t power wash your horse blanket, this will damage the fabric making it even leakier.
• Also avoid using stiff brushes on the outside of the blanket, as this too will cause too much damage to the material
• Make sure your blankets are dry when storing them, so any dampness doesn’t form mould.
• Clean and re-waterproof your blankets at least once a year.
• The best time to re-proof horse blankets is in the spring when they are no longer needed, so they’re ready for the following winter.

By Chris Bates, DO, Equine Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

 

There is a lot of talk in the equine industry about hoof care and the benefits of barefoot trimming. Many top riders are now competing at the very top levels of equine sport with barefoot horses.

Both Peder Frederickson and Henrik Von Eckermann rode their horses barefoot in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, winning show jumping team gold. Top Grand Prix Dressage trainers Shannon and Stephan Peters are avid converts to the benefits of barefoot hoof care after seeing huge positive changes in their own horses including freer shoulders and straighter movements.

Physical Effects of Horse Shoes

Through an Osteopathic lens, barefoot trimming makes a lot of sense. Adding an artificial object to the body will inevitably alter the natural function. Proprioception (perception of the position and movement of the body) will be changed every time a new set of shoes is fitted.

While the hoof is a relatively hard structure and designed to carry immense forces, it still contains incredibly complex structures for feeling the world around the horse.

Osteopathy recognizes the body as a dynamic and changing phenomenon, one that alters and adjusts in relation to the forces placed upon it. Fundamentally changing those forces by the addition of shoes will of course fundamentally change the biomechanics and the function of the body above them.

Hoof Function and Osteopathy

As we say in Osteopathy, “Structure and Function are reciprocally interrelated”. The hoof’s function as a vascular pump plays an important role in maintaining the health of the tissues in the distal limbs.

The compression and release of pressure when moving aids in the venous return of blood and the lymphatic drainage of the limb. Structures like the lateral cartilages aid the fluid dynamics of the extremities (see our courses for details on anatomy).

From the early pioneers of Osteopathy to modern practitioners, the importance of adequate arterial flow has been promoted greatly, as has the drainage and the removal of obstructions to that flow.

Osteopathy and Hoof Observations

In my career, I have noticed a marked difference in the hoof health of horses who have their natural fluid dynamics uninterrupted. One case springs to mind of a TB x Gelding I had been treating for almost a year when the owners decided to try going barefoot.

My recommendation had simply been to get a second opinion on his feet as there were a number of issues. The farrier had been shoeing the other horses at the same stables and so these owners used him for convenience.

The gelding had a history of reduced stride length and reaching of the back when ridden or when trotting on the lunge. His canter was often disunited and lacked any lateral bend, in fact, the canter often broke to a trot and was downhill.

His feet were long, leaving the hoof pastern axis broken and placing excess strain onto the suspensory apparatus and tendons. The heels were contracted and there was no contact between the frog and the ground.

Unsurprisingly, the horse’s hooves were dry and cracked and he was often dropping shoes in the field. There had been a history of mild lameness in the summer months that I had assumed was due to the increase in forces due to harder ground.

The owners were so often slapping lotions and oils onto the hoof wall to avoid cracks and dehydration that they were quite the experts in what was available. In my role as a therapist, I am not at liberty to dictate shod or barefoot, I can make recommendations and explain the reasons but unfortunately, it ends there.

I made every effort to educate the owners on how the hoof formation was likely leading to many of the horse’s issues (often being listened to intently by other owners at the stables). This is where a practitioner who is both a Barefoot Trimmer and Animal Osteopath would be placed to make huge positive changes in the animal’s well-being.

After much coercion, I managed to get a colleague of mine (a Barefoot specialist) to come to the stables and give a talk. This talk really did the trick and I attended to give my thoughts too.

The owners of the TB X in question made the switch. As with any horse, the changes were gradual and monitored frequently while the trimmer helped the horse transition.

Every time I attended to treat the horse from that point, I saw the forelimbs standing more plum, shoulder development increased, lateral bend improved and hoof health was great.

His hooves no longer needed oils and gels and were crack-free. The horse went on to reach a good standard in novice dressage and the owners are happier than ever.

Combining Barefoot Trimming With Osteopathy

So, if Barefoot Trimmers can make such great changes, why train in Osteopathy too?

Well, if every condition and issue stemmed only from a primary condition in the feet, then we wouldn’t need any therapists.

Unfortunately, trimmers will come across horses that have a descending chain of impacts that could stem from spinal restrictions, muscular strain, systemic health concerns, or acute injuries.

Osteopaths have discussed the importance of “Primary Lesions” for many years. The reality in clinical practice is that patients want to feel better and if that requires coming at a problem from more than one angle at once then so be it.

In my own practice I can address different angles as I am a human Osteopath too, this means that if there is a riding issue that is being caused by the rider, I can address the stresses on both rider and horse.

Being that hoof health is paramount to horses’ well-being, having the ability to address the body as a whole including the adjusting of hoof health and mechanics is a powerful combination.

Ultimately there will be horses who require remedial shoeing and this is always going to be important. Osteopathy as a discipline is most concerned with patients as individuals so I would never suggest that all horses can or should be barefoot all the time.

Osteopathy also values the body’s own ability to accommodate stressors and allostatic load and seeks to provide the best environment for it to do this. The wider the scope of the practitioner, the more avenues for providing this favorable environment there are.

Classical Osteopaths would say that although conditions may be unpleasant, they are never wrong; the body’s state is a result of intrinsic and external factors and can only be optimized by removal of obstruction or perversion of natural structure and processes.

Using the Osteopathic mindset “Why is this condition correct?” really changes animal health and aims to address the “state” of the animal rather than palliate symptoms. These values are shown in the principles of Barefoot Trimming too.

 

For information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

‍

By Chris Bates, Osteopath (DO), Equine Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO).

 

We’re back with Part II of Preparing for your Equine Professional. Let’s start with….

Trainers and Instructors

Here in the UK, one of the first things my trainer wanted was a cup of tea (could we be any more British?), but there are plenty of things you can do to make sure you get the most from their visits.

If you are having a lesson then you can really help yourself by doing a bit of warming up before you get on.

Many people will have been prepping their horse or mucking out so you might feel limber but some simple stretching can really improve your performance in the saddle and avoid those aching muscles afterwards.

One of the big issues with a rider’s position, especially on the flatwork, is tight hip flexors. A simple standing stretch can really help.

Hold onto something steady like a stable door with one hand and take hold of your ankle with the other, draw the lifted foot up towards your buttocks, and stand straight with your hips tucked under you.

You should feel a nice stretch down the front of your hips and thighs. Hold this for around 20 seconds and repeat on the other leg.

 

 

It doesn’t matter what discipline you ride; you are bound to have heard the phrase “heels down” at some point. Ankle mobility and calf suppleness are very useful to maintain the depth of the seat and keep you safe when jumping.

Try sitting down and alternate between pointing your toes and lifting them towards you (both ankles). You might need to take your riding boots off as they can restrict ankle movement.

 

 

Your spine needs to remain tall yet mobile when riding. Stiffness in your back can hurt you and translate to your horse’s movement too.

Try some simple spinal mobilization before your lesson. A spinal roll is a great way to wake up your back, stand with your feet together or very close, tuck your chin, and slowly roll down towards your knees a bit at a time.

Some people like to breathe out slowly as they do this to support the movement. Breathe in as you rewind the movement back up to tall again.

 

 

A gentle side bend can stretch your back but also mobilize your shoulders. With your feet around shoulder width or just over, incline your body over to the side and let your arm raise over your head.

Feel the stretch down your sides, through your ribs, and the length of your arm. Repeat both sides as needed.

 

 

A twisting exercise also helps with ridden work as rotation of your trunk is very important in being able to move smoothly on a bend with your horse.

This also helps you become mindful about twisting the wrong way when riding. Simple awareness can transform your sessions.

Raise your arms to shoulder height or clasp them together then rotate your body to the right and then the left. Feel how this alters your pelvis position and weight distribution and become mindful of how that will feel to your horse.

 

 

 

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

 

By Chris Bates, Equine Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

There is an old saying, “It takes an army to raise a child”. Any horse owner will tell you that it wouldn’t be far from the truth to say the same can be said for keeping horses.

Owning a horse is a huge responsibility but one that pays off big time when you do it right. Horses need a lot of very specialist care, from farrier to vet, trainer to saddler. In addition to hiring the best available professionals for your horse, owners also need to know what those experts need from them.

No Foot, No Horse

We take our feet for granted, but horses’ feet (at least domesticated horses) need to be regularly checked and trimmed/shod. The regularity of a farrier needs to visit will depend on several factors including seasonal hoof changes, remedial shoeing, and even breed of horse.

During the warmer, drier months, horses’ feet will grow faster to accommodate harder ground and the natural wearing of the foot.

During these warmer times your farrier might recommend using a hoof moisturizer to help maintain suppleness in the hoof wall and sole, this can help avoid foot soreness and cracking.

Another easy trick to help your horse’s feet when it’s very dry is to submerge the foot into water (in a safe rubber bucket is best) for around 5-10 minutes twice a week.

When winter comes around, hoof growth can slow considerably meaning that in some horses they may go longer between visits. However, the damp conditions can raise the risk of bacterial hoof infections and hoof wall separation.

Always ensure hooves have been picked out correctly to avoid breeding grounds for infection. Some antibacterial gels and sprays can be useful if mild infection occurs.

Always call your vet if signs of inflammation or lameness are present. For safety, there should always be adequate space for the farrier to work on flat, even ground if possible.

Although some farriers will not mind the horse tied, it might be safer to have a handler holding the horse during the visit.

Ideally, the foot should be clean and dry when the farrier arrives, this might not always be possible but catching field kelp horses early to allow any mud to dry and get brushed off is a good practice.

If you need to hose the horse’s legs prior to the farrier coming, then try to dry them with a towel as wet feet are slippery and risk accidents when shoeing and trimming.

Try to ensure the area is quiet and undisturbed by other horses as distractions can lead to fidgeting and this only makes the job harder.

Therapists

As an equine therapist, I’ve lost count of the times I’ve turned up to treat and the horse is fresh out of the rain and covered in thick wet mud.

You wouldn’t go for a massage straight after doing a military assault course- you would take a shower first. For any therapy where either a hand or a machine is going to be applied, the horse needs to be clean and dry.

Electro-therapies won’t be as effective through a layer of muck. Hands can’t palpate effectively. It’s not expected that your horse should be freshly bathed and free of dust, even the cleanest of horses still have natural oils and exfoliated skin in the coat. However, your horse will benefit most from the visit if they are dry and groomed. It’s important that someone is there to handle the horse. This is for the safety of everyone involved and to help keep the horse happy during the session.

The therapist will likely need to see the horse walk and trot up to assess movement and so have a space where this is possible.

Ideally, the trot-up area should be a straight flat area giving about 15-20 meters. However, shorter space is often adequate.

If the area is free of distractions, then even better. This allows the horse to move naturally without looking around as movement will change the body.

The handler needs to use a sufficient length of rope to let the horse carry their own forehand and not interfere with their way of going. The treatment space can be a stable or wash-down area, as long as there is protection from the elements.

Generally, it is best to have only the handler and therapist in the vicinity as this gives safety space and calms the horse. Take out haynets and any other items that might get in the way or be a distraction.

If treating in a stable then having the door unbolted means that the handler or therapist can get out in an emergency easily. Also, make sure the stable is clean so your therapist can work without standing in the muck.

The therapist is likely to ask about feeds and medications/supplements, so be sure you know what the horse is taking daily and details about their daily regime.

Many therapists prefer that the horse be ‘cold’ for its evaluation. This means that the horse has been resting in its stable for at least an hour and not just after being ridden or having just come off the horse walker.

This will help the therapist make the most accurate evaluation of the horse as the muscles haven’t stretched out or been warmed up, which can sometimes give a biased feel or look.

 

Stay tuned for Part II of “Preparing for Your Equine Professional” coming soon! For more information on how to become an Equine Osteopath, click here