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By Chris Bates, Osteopath (DO), Equine Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO).

We’re back with Part II of Preparing for your Equine Professional. Let’s start with….

Trainers and Instructors

Here in the UK, one of the first things my trainer wanted was a cup of tea (could we be any more British?), but there are plenty of things you can do to make sure you get the most from their visits.

If you are having a lesson then you can really help yourself by doing a bit of warming up before you get on.

Many people will have been prepping their horse or mucking out so you might feel limber but some simple stretching can really improve your performance in the saddle and avoid those aching muscles afterwards.

One of the big issues with a rider’s position, especially on the flatwork, is tight hip flexors. A simple standing stretch can really help.

Hold onto something steady like a stable door with one hand and take hold of your ankle with the other, draw the lifted foot up towards your buttocks, and stand straight with your hips tucked under you.

You should feel a nice stretch down the front of your hips and thighs. Hold this for around 20 seconds and repeat on the other leg.

It doesn’t matter what discipline you ride; you are bound to have heard the phrase “heels down” at some point. Ankle mobility and calf suppleness are very useful to maintain the depth of the seat and keep you safe when jumping.

Try sitting down and alternate between pointing your toes and lifting them towards you (both ankles). You might need to take your riding boots off as they can restrict ankle movement.

Your spine needs to remain tall yet mobile when riding. Stiffness in your back can hurt you and translate to your horse’s movement too.

Try some simple spinal mobilization before your lesson. A spinal roll is a great way to wake up your back, stand with your feet together or very close, tuck your chin, and slowly roll down towards your knees a bit at a time.

Some people like to breathe out slowly as they do this to support the movement. Breathe in as you rewind the movement back up to tall again.

A gentle side bend can stretch your back but also mobilize your shoulders. With your feet around shoulder width or just over, incline your body over to the side and let your arm raise over your head.

Feel the stretch down your sides, through your ribs, and the length of your arm. Repeat both sides as needed.

A twisting exercise also helps with ridden work as rotation of your trunk is very important in being able to move smoothly on a bend with your horse.

This also helps you become mindful about twisting the wrong way when riding. Simple awareness can transform your sessions.

Raise your arms to shoulder height or clasp them together then rotate your body to the right and then the left. Feel how this alters your pelvis position and weight distribution and become mindful of how that will feel to your horse.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

By Chris Bates, Equine Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

There is an old saying, “It takes an army to raise a child”. Any horse owner will tell you that it wouldn’t be far from the truth to say the same can be said for keeping horses.

Owning a horse is a huge responsibility but one that pays off big time when you do it right. Horses need a lot of very specialist care, from farrier to vet, trainer to saddler. In addition to hiring the best available professionals for your horse, owners also need to know what those experts need from them.

No Foot, No Horse

We take our feet for granted, but horses’ feet (at least domesticated horses) need to be regularly checked and trimmed/shod. The regularity of a farrier needs to visit will depend on several factors including seasonal hoof changes, remedial shoeing, and even breed of horse.

During the warmer, drier months, horses’ feet will grow faster to accommodate harder ground and the natural wearing of the foot.

During these warmer times your farrier might recommend using a hoof moisturizer to help maintain suppleness in the hoof wall and sole, this can help avoid foot soreness and cracking.

Another easy trick to help your horse’s feet when it’s very dry is to submerge the foot into water (in a safe rubber bucket is best) for around 5-10 minutes twice a week.

When winter comes around, hoof growth can slow considerably meaning that in some horses they may go longer between visits. However, the damp conditions can raise the risk of bacterial hoof infections and hoof wall separation.

Always ensure hooves have been picked out correctly to avoid breeding grounds for infection. Some antibacterial gels and sprays can be useful if mild infection occurs.

Always call your vet if signs of inflammation or lameness are present. For safety, there should always be adequate space for the farrier to work on flat, even ground if possible.

Although some farriers will not mind the horse tied, it might be safer to have a handler holding the horse during the visit.

Ideally, the foot should be clean and dry when the farrier arrives, this might not always be possible but catching field kelp horses early to allow any mud to dry and get brushed off is a good practice.

If you need to hose the horse’s legs prior to the farrier coming, then try to dry them with a towel as wet feet are slippery and risk accidents when shoeing and trimming.

Try to ensure the area is quiet and undisturbed by other horses as distractions can lead to fidgeting and this only makes the job harder.

Therapists

As an equine therapist, I’ve lost count of the times I’ve turned up to treat and the horse is fresh out of the rain and covered in thick wet mud.

You wouldn’t go for a massage straight after doing a military assault course- you would take a shower first. For any therapy where either a hand or a machine is going to be applied, the horse needs to be clean and dry.

Electro-therapies won’t be as effective through a layer of muck. Hands can’t palpate effectively. It’s not expected that your horse should be freshly bathed and free of dust, even the cleanest of horses still have natural oils and exfoliated skin in the coat. However, your horse will benefit most from the visit if they are dry and groomed. It’s important that someone is there to handle the horse. This is for the safety of everyone involved and to help keep the horse happy during the session.

The therapist will likely need to see the horse walk and trot up to assess movement and so have a space where this is possible.

Ideally, the trot-up area should be a straight flat area giving about 15-20 meters. However, shorter space is often adequate.

If the area is free of distractions, then even better. This allows the horse to move naturally without looking around as movement will change the body.

The handler needs to use a sufficient length of rope to let the horse carry their own forehand and not interfere with their way of going. The treatment space can be a stable or wash-down area, as long as there is protection from the elements.

Generally, it is best to have only the handler and therapist in the vicinity as this gives safety space and calms the horse. Take out haynets and any other items that might get in the way or be a distraction.

If treating in a stable then having the door unbolted means that the handler or therapist can get out in an emergency easily. Also, make sure the stable is clean so your therapist can work without standing in the muck.

The therapist is likely to ask about feeds and medications/supplements, so be sure you know what the horse is taking daily and details about their daily regime.

Many therapists prefer that the horse be ‘cold’ for its evaluation. This means that the horse has been resting in its stable for at least an hour and not just after being ridden or having just come off the horse walker.

This will help the therapist make the most accurate evaluation of the horse as the muscles haven’t stretched out or been warmed up, which can sometimes give a biased feel or look.

Stay tuned for Part II of “Preparing for Your Equine Professional” coming soon! For more information on how to become an Equine Osteopath, click here

Poison Hemlock

There are several varieties of Hemlock, and it is known by a number of different names.

These are just a few:

• Spotted Hemlock
• Poison Parsley
• Nebraska Fern
• California Fern
• Winter Fern
• Wild Carrot
• Cicuta
• Snake Weed

This plant is highly toxic and contains neurotoxins, the most troublesome being Conine. When ingested, symptoms appear quickly, often within 15 minutes but can take 1 to 2 hours.

Any part of the plant is toxic if eaten, and it affects the brain, nervous system, and neuromuscular junction.

Symptoms of Hemlock poisoning include:

• Muscle tremors
• Salivation
• Lack of coordination
• Respiration rate increase
• Symptoms of colic
• Seizures
• Dilated pupils
• Breathing difficulties

Red Maple

While red maple trees are beautiful, they are not safe for horses. Horses are at most risk during the fall or after stormy weather that brings leaves down from the trees.

Dying or wilted leaves contain a toxin that attacks red blood cells when eaten, which causes severe anemia and the loss of the blood’s oxygen-carrying ability. As little as 1.5 lbs of eaten leaves can cause severe poisoning. The toxin has yet to be identified.

Early detection and veterinary treatment can, in some cases, save the horse from death. Prevention is the best policy!

Symptoms occur from 18 hours to 5 days after the horse has eaten the leaves. They can include:

• Weakness
• Dark brown or red urine
• Depression
• Lack of appetite
• Yellow mucus membranes
• Increased heart rate

Water Hemlock

Like Poison Hemlock, Water Hemlock is often fatal. If a horse survives past eight hours without the added complication of seizures, it has a better chance of surviving.

Water Hemlock’s most concentrated area of toxin is in its roots. It tends to grow in wet areas, and it is easy for horses to pull up and access the roots.

It is common for signs of poisoning to go unnoticed, and sadly many horses that ingest it are found dead. Subtle signs include twitching in muscles and around the face. Seizures can then follow.

If you suspect a plant is any kind of hemlock, be extra careful when removing it. Wear gloves and don’t inhale it.

Yew

All parts of the Yew tree are extremely toxic for horses, and eating just a small amount is fatal. According to Rossdale’s equine vets, it can kill a horse in just 5 minutes after they eat it!

It contains two highly dangerous alkaloids – taxine A and B. There is no treatment or cure. Yew kills very fast. Signs of yew poisoning can include loss of coordination, breathing difficulty, and muscle trembling.

Often the horse will experience sudden death, with many horses found with the plant still in their mouth.

Don’t let this plant anywhere near your horses!

Bracken Fern

While toxic, a horse needs to eat a bigger quantity of the plant over a couple of months. Most horses won’t eat it as they don’t like the taste. However, the odd horse will really like it.

Signs of bracken fern poisoning are neurological. They can include muscle spasms, stumbling/staggering, circling, and seizures.

Thankfully, if caught early enough, the horse can be treated with thiamine by the vet. The best practice is to remove it from your land if you see it.

Avocado

Avocados contain persin, which is toxic to horses. Poisoning can present with several different symptoms, including:

• colic
• breathing difficulty
• heart rhythm irregularity
• swelling around the face
• neurologic dysfunction

All parts, the fruit, stems, and leaves, are toxic. Ingesting even a tiny amount is fatal. Stick to carrots and apples, and never feed a horse avocado.

Oleander

Oleander is fatal if eaten by horses. Just of note, it is also toxic to other animals and people. Death happens fairly quickly, within 8 to 10 hours. The component of the plant that causes poisoning is oleandrin. This will cause cardiac arrhythmia.

Only a handful of ingested leaves can cause death but the entire plant is poisonous.

Yellow Star Thistle

Yellow Star Thistle is also known as golden starthistle, St. Barnaby’s thistle, yellow cockspur, and cotton-tip thistle.

It is an invasive non-native plant found mostly in the western half of the US, south-central Europe. The Middle East, and Asia Minor.

It causes what is known as ‘chewing disease’ in horses. This disease is also caused by horses ingesting a similar plant called Russian knapweed.

It is a neurotoxin, most likely repin. However, the exact toxin is yet to be discovered. Poisoning builds up over time with repeated ingestion until the toxicity threshold is reached. The toxin builds up in the brain and causes neural tissue.

Symptoms include:

• Anxiousness
• Confusion
• Difficulty eating and drinking
• Hypertonicity of muzzle muscles
• Tongue hanging out
• Constant chewing motions

As the disease progresses horses suffer muscle paralysis which prevents them from eating and drinking properly. The neurological damage is not treatable and euthanasia is the humane option.

Johnsongrass

Johnsongrass causes cyanide poisoning, teratogenesis, and neuropathy. Horses that ingest Johnsongrass are more likely to suffer teratogenesis and neuropathy than cyanide poisoning.

Poisoning occurs over a few weeks.

Symptoms include:

• Ataxia
• Lack of coordination
• Urine dribbling
• Hind leg and tail paralysis
• Abortion in pregnant mares

Not all horses are affected by eating this plant. The toxicity threshold is not fully understood. While not always fatal, horses have a poor prognosis, especially if nerve damage has occurred. If signs are noticed before serious nerve damage occurs the vet may be able to help the horse.

It is best to prevent this plant from infiltrating your land and hay to avoid any risks.

Locoweed

The entire locoweed plant is toxic to horses. The component associated with this plant that causes neurotoxicity is swainsonine. It also goes by the name Lambert’s crazy weed. Many horses find it palatable.

Symptoms include:

• Ataxia
• Congenital defects in foals or fetal death
• Temperament changes
• Depression
• Difficulty standing
• Unpredictable dangerous behavior

Often stopping horses from eating the plant can result in recovery but any nervous system damage is permanent. However, once horses get a taste for the plant they will seek it out.

Milkweed

Milkweed is usually not a plant that horses will avoid when grazing or if it makes its way into their hay. The toxins include a neurotoxin and cardiac glycoside.

It is often fatal and horses usually die within 24 to 72 hours.

Symptoms include:

• Colic
• Seizures
• Lack of coordination
• Irregular heartbeat
• Pupil dilation
• Lethargy

If poisoning is caught quickly enough, a vet may be able to save the horse. Always ensure your hay is from a reputable source, as many cases arise from milkweed-contaminated hay.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

By Chris Bates Osteopath (DO), Equine Therapist, and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy

We are back again for more winter horse care advice. So, put those thermals on and grab your hot drink, it’s time to read.

Is my horse cold?

It is a common sight to see people touching their horse’s ears and legs when checking to see how warm they are. The problem is that it can be very misleading as to how comfortable your horse really is.

Horses are very good at regulating their body temperature. They have an excellent range of methods to regulate especially when they are not clipped or rugged. Horses can feel really quite comfortable down as far as 5 degrees (Celsius) if they have a full winter coat and are not rugged.

Below this temperature, they can use internal and external methods to keep warm. Horses can alter the blood flow to their extremities and places where heat is lost easily, like their ears.

The conservation of blood to the internal organs helps to keep digestion functioning properly and avoids cold weather causing colic. This is why touching legs and ears is not a good indicator of a horse’s body temperature.

The horse has a large part of the digestive system called the Cecum. This contains billions of bacteria and protozoa that enable the horse to digest the cellulose and the fiber of their diet.

This process of fermentation and digestion generates heat and is an important way for horses to regulate their temperature.

The microorganisms that perform this part of digestion require a specific pH balance to survive. We can help to ensure the right pH environment for these beneficial bugs.

One way is to avoid feeding excessive starch as this leads to an acidic environment in the gut. Grain feeds should be little and often rather than large meals less often. Ample access to forage such as hay is imperative to gut health.

The death of gut microbiome organisms causes the release of endotoxin that can cause colic and laminitis, so it’s important to watch out for signs of these conditions when changing feeding regimes with the season.

Remember that you’re not feeling the cold the way your horse does. We are rather naked animals, hence all the layers of clothing. Horses, on the other hand, are very well protected by their coat.

Piloerector muscles along the hair follicles can lift the horse’s coat away from the skin, trapping air underneath and allowing that air to heat up. This forms a layer of warmth that most rug designers can only dream of replicating.

When we rug our horses, we essentially press these hairs back down, and so the insulation is all down to the rug (it had better be a good rug).

The horse’s coat is even equipped with different length hairs, some that are finer and insulating, and some that lay longer to help moisture and rain to run off the body, keeping the skin dry and warm.

So, a better indicator of how warm your horse feels is to run your hand deep under the coat toward the skin around the vital organs of the trunk. However, this still isn’t an ideal measure.

Shivering is completely normal behavior if it’s very cold, but if you see excessive shivering consistently then you need to look at how to help your horse stay warm. Loss of weight is an obvious and more urgent indicator of feeling the cold. Horses will need to dive into those fat stores to stay warm if they are not getting adequate feed or shelter.

If your horse is stabled part-time then you might notice your horse standing at the field gates. This is a clear sign that they want in.

Stabling is obviously more sheltered and drier. It gives the opportunity to monitor feeding more accurately but remember that they won’t be able to move around as much and movement is one-way horses generate body heat.

If your horse is spending hours standing at the gate, though, they are not eating and risk colic or weight loss. Muddy gateways also increase the risk of skin irritations like mud fever and hoof damage like thrush.

Skin issues

When the weather is colder and wetter, the skin becomes more prone to irritations and infections. A very common condition is mud fever.

This is a bacterial infection caused by the bacteria getting into the often chapped and damp weakened skin around fetlocks and pasterns.

If a horse has mites, then this can increase the chances of mud fever as the skin can get broken, allowing the bacteria in. Treating for any sign of mites earlier in the season is useful. Signs include stamping, scratching, sensitivity to picking up feet, flaking skin, and redness.

Signs of mud fever vary. They include:

• Broken skin
• Crusty scabs
• Pus and discharge
• Swelling and heat
• Sometimes lameness, if left untreated
• Soreness when you try to touch the areaIt’s important to treat early as mud fever can lead to worse infection, such as cellulitis, which can be very dangerous.
  

  Prevention:

  If there are very muddy areas in your grazing, you can try moving to drier ground. You can also try using straw to cover wet areas. There are also special mats you can install in field gateways to prevent mud.

  Instead of washing mud off when you bring your horse in, try leaving the mud to dry and then brushing it off. This means the horse’s skin doesn’t get any wetter.

  Use barrier creams to keep the mud away from the skin. These must only be applied to dry clean skin, however as otherwise, they actually help bacterial growth by trapping moisture against the skin.

  Treatment:

• Washing mud fever regularly with an antibacterial wash such as Hibiscrub and warm water (drying the legs afterwards).
• Removing loose scabs.
• Clipping leg hair away allows for more effective treatment and a drier environment. Especially for horses with thick feathers.
• Antibacterial creams while the horse is off grazing (in stables).
• Stronger medications can be acquired from your vet.

If your horse shows any signs of lameness, obvious swelling in the legs, fever, malaise, or hair loss, then contact your vet. Remember also that this condition can occur on the belly and other areas like the back, although this is often called rain scald.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

By Siun Griffin, Equine Physiotherapist and LCAO Community Manager

Using ice or cold water on horses for injuries is nothing new. But it certainly has become more sophisticated in the past 10 years.

Cold therapy not only helps treat existing injuries but it can also be used to aid recovery and reduce soreness.

Why is it used, when is it used, and how does it work?

The Main Purpose Of Ice Therapy For Horses

In simple terms, using ice or cold water helps reduce swelling and inflammation. It can also slow down the inflammation process and reduce the damage it causes to tissues.

Reducing swelling and inflammation will help lessen any pain your horse is experiencing from its injury. And, of course, the cold will help remove heat from the affected area.

Key effects of ice of cold:

• Reduce swelling
• Slow or reduce inflammation
• Restrict blood flow
• Pain relief
• Reduce heat

Is Ice or Cold Water Better

Ice or ice water is always better than just cold water. Generally, water from the hose is not cold enough. However, if that’s your only option, then it is better than nothing.

We’ve all been there – standing holding the hose as we let cold water run over a leg for several minutes!

Thankfully, today we have products designed to apply ice to horses more easily than with a hose or convincing a horse to stand in a bucket of ice water.

Of course, with a little creativity, you can put together your own DIY ice wraps in a few minutes. More on that in a minute.

When To Use Cold Therapy

Rick Mitchell, DVM, MRCVS, Dipl. ACVSMR, of Fairfield Equine Associates in Newtown, CT says, “If you are presented with an acutely swollen, hot limb, ice is never an inappropriate initial therapy.”

It is pretty hard to go wrong when deciding to apply cold to an injury or suspected sore spot on your horse. However, you need to make sure you do it correctly. More on that in a minute.

When in doubt, always ask your vet if icing is ok for your horse. While, in most cases, icing will cause no problems, there are some contraindications.

Dr. Brendan Furlong, MVB, MRCVS, of B. W. Furlong and Associates ice, is contraindicated for the following:

• The skin is broken
• Possible infection at the site of the injury
• There is a laceration to part of the hoof
• If water softens a hoof injury area, it could make it worse
• Take extra caution when using ice on young horses and foals as they have thinner skin, which can freeze more quickly

How To Use Ice Therapy

Whichever way you decide to use ice or cold therapy on your horse, there are a few simple rules you need to follow.

Always ice for 20 minutes and no longer than 30 minutes at a time. There are two exceptions to this rule. For some acute injuries, it is better to ice for only 10 minutes with 20-minute breaks and frequent repetitions.

Icing for over 30 minutes will cause a rebound effect in which the horse’s body sends a rush of blood to the area negating the effect of the cold. Your ice will also ‘warm’ up, no longer being effective.

You also want to limit the time to prevent damage to the skin. Leave at least 30 minutes between icing sessions.

The other big exception to icing time is for laminitis or when the horse seems to be on the verge of developing it. One of the main treatment protocols in these cases is to ice the feet. The longer, the better, as it will help reduce the onset of laminitis or reduce the severity.

Icing Precautions and Tips

To protect the skin, always place something, like a thin towel, between the ice and the skin. The cold therapy will be more effective if you wet this towel in advance.

Methods To Ice Your Horse

The old-fashioned ways to apply cold therapy are cold hosing or filling a bucket with water and ice. These are, of course, still useful, but getting a horse to stand in a bucket of ice water doesn’t always go so well!

Today, you can buy specially designed ice boots that allow you to easily apply this treatment. These are great and super easy to use but can be expensive.

For a smaller budget, there are some DIY versions you can make.

Fill ice pop sheets with water or water and some rubbing alcohol and freeze them. The rubbing alcohol will prevent the sheets from completely freezing so you can shape them around your horse’s leg.

Place a wet towel over the area, then your frozen sheet, and secure it with a polo bandage or duct tape.

You can also do something similar with large, sturdy ziplock bags.

One method I really like is ice-cup massage. This is a great way to treat large sore muscles in the body. Partially fill a paper cup with water and freeze it.

When you want to use it, peel off sections of the cup and massage it over the area you want to treat for 10 to 15 minutes. As you are constantly moving, you don’t need a barrier towel.

Final Thoughts

Ice is a wonderful, simple, and inexpensive way to manage your sports horse or include it in injury treatment.

While it can’t completely prevent injury, it can potentially reduce the effects, help with soreness and recovery, and reduce inflammation.

This, combined with veterinary guidance and treatment from your osteopath, physio, or massage therapist, can help your horse stay comfortable and happy.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

By Chris Bates, Osteopath and Equine Therapist, Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

It’s that time of year again- red noses, wooly hats, and waterproof gear! But while we know how we feel when the weather takes a turn, do we really understand how our horses react? If you spend long enough at the stables this time of year you will undoubtedly hear someone ask “What rug are you putting on him tonight?”.

Likewise, you’ll see owners sticking their hands under rugs to check their horse’s temperature. The problem is that there is no “one size fits all” answer.

As we know from an Osteopathic perspective, each horse is an individual case and will react differently. In this two-part “seasonal” series, we will look at common cold weather considerations.

To clip or not to clip?

Imagine you’re riding your horse on a lovely autumn afternoon and suddenly notice they’re sweating. Perhaps you have a jacket on and feel warm, but remember, it’s your horse that’s doing the leg work (literally).

As the days get shorter, horses react to diminishing daylight. Reduced daylight causes an increase in Melatonin. This hormone has a number of functions, including regulating cycles in mares and control over sleep.

It also stimulates the growth of winter coats. Horse coats are perfectly suited to insulation, rain protection and can actively regulate temperature by trapping air or flattening down. The problem comes when we want to exercise our horses while they have this thick covering.

Clipping removes the coat down to short fine hair which allows the horse to regulate better through sweating. This is why clipping removes the areas that are most prone to heavier sweating such as neck, girth, and flank.

Finding the right clip depends on the type and intensity of exercise you ask of your horse. Generally, the more intense the exercise, the more the coat is removed. However, this also depends on the way the horse will be rugged when not working.

A full clip (everything off) is usually not needed unless the horse is in regular winter competition/work as well as fully rugged and often stabled.

A good standard clip for an adult horse in moderate to regular work of medium intensity is a blanket clip or trace clip. These leave a sufficient covering over the back and help to keep the organs warm, thereby reducing risk of colic or rapid weight loss.

The important thing is that the horse shouldn’t lose condition from over sweating, but still be able to regulate their own temperature when not under saddle.

Our advice is to speak to your Osteopath, Trainer or Stable Manager as to which clip would suit and always use an experienced and safe professional to do the job.

Food Glorious Food!

Colder weather brings with it the need to reassess our horse’s diets. Many owners believe that horses should be fat going into winter, but this is not completely true.

Yes, it’s useful for horses to be in good condition heading into winter as the cold necessitates the body to metabolize that “fuel” to regulate body temperature. However, making any changes to diet brings the risk of digestive distress such as colic or overfeeding issues like laminitis.

Forage such as hay/grass should make up the bulk of the horses diet, in colder months however the access to grass may well be reduced and so supplementary hay should be offered.

Forage being digested produces heat, regulating the horses temperature. Field feeders are useful as they reduce the chance of hay becoming mushed into the ground and wasting money, not to mention the risk of ingesting sand, stones or mud.

If you’re feeding your horse concentrate meals then feed them as little and often as possible. Horses do best with trickle feeders as excessive single feeds can lead to colic or choking from fast overfeeding.

A good feed balancer is useful to ensure sufficient vitamin and mineral intake. It’s also important to check the horse’s water. If you are in an area where freezing is likely then frozen troughs and buckets will cut off their access. Hydration is very important whatever time of year.

Check back next week for Part II of our horse care in winter series.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here 

By Chris Bates, DO, Animal Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

If you’ve read the news or opened social media in the last 6 months, you know that much of the world is in a deep economic recession.

As countries try to find solutions to their financial woes, many of us worry not only about feeding families and heating our homes but also about the rising costs of equine ownership.

Our horses are an extension of us, and in these troubling times, it’s hard not to worry as to how to maintain their health and quality of life.

Despite the dire news that lights up our screens every day, all is not lost. There are many ways to cut back on costs while keeping your four-legged family members happy and healthy. Let’s talk about some ways to keep costs down and still enjoy time with our horses.

1. Sharing Duties

In many livery stables, owners pay dearly to cover the care of their horses while they are at work or otherwise engaged.

Luckily, the stables are shared with other owners who may be retired or simply work part-time. It often pays to speak to your barn companions and see if you can come up with a way to share duties.

If you have something to offer, such as teaching skills, therapy, or tack repair, then bartering can really pay off!

Sometimes, offering to muck out a friend’s horse in return for them catching yours from the paddock can save you big time, especially when considering the prohibitive costs of relying solely on the stable’s staff.

Of course, if you are on a contract to pay a set fee, then you can try to discuss this with your stables manager.

2. Bulk Deliveries

If you and your stable companions use the same supplier of feed, hay, and bedding, then organizing a bulk delivery with each recipient paying a percentage can really help cut down on expenses.

Often, people will use a certain feed type for their horse while unaware that the supplier provides the same feed or similar at a smaller cost. Many big brands will charge more per bag, but it’s worth checking the nutritional information of the less expensive brands as they are often exactly the same.

If there is a difference in the content, but you feel it could still provide your horse with the required diet, check with your vet or contact an equine nutritionist. Often, this one-off expense of getting advice more than makes up for overspending in the long term.

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3. Second-Hand Sales

Check your local equestrian club’s notice boards, tack shops, and horsey social media for local second-hand sales. You’d be surprised how much stuff horse owners accumulate over time, and much of it might be useful for you.

We all know the feeling of walking into an equestrian store and being shocked at the price of things like tack, grooming supplies, and clothing. Second-hand sales can be a great place to find bargains and maybe even make some new horsey friends while you’re at it.

You might even be able to make a little extra cash by selling some items you no longer need. If you buy things such as bridles or girths, always check the stitching and look for any rips or weakened materials – this could save you a costly accident.

If buying saddles, ask the owner if you can pay a deposit and return it if your saddler says it isn’t right for your horse.

Rugs can often be found at good prices at second-hand sales, but consider re-proofing outdoor rugs with a proofing spray and always wash your new purchases to avoid passing any issues like mites, bacterial infections, or ringworm.

4. Shoeing

While this will depend on your individual horse, it might be possible to save some money by changing how you shoe your horse. If your horse is not doing a lot of work, maybe taking shoes off and just doing regular pairs for the winter will suit.

Or if you are riding but only in an arena on a good surface, your horse might do just fine with a half set. Speak to your farrier about options that would work for your horse. This can certainly save you some money.

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5. Reevaluate Supplements

Take a good look at your supplements. Does your horse really need all of them? Supplements can get pretty expensive, and many are an expensive way to create luxury horse manure!

Unfortunately, there is not a lot of scientific data on many supplements- some can even be detrimental, like garlic, but that’s another discussion.

If your horse is getting a well-balanced diet, it may not need certain supplements. If you feel what you’re giving your horse is helping, then by all means, keep it.

It’s worth thinking about and possibly cutting one or more supplements from your horse’s diet to save money.

There are always other ways to save during tough times when you own horses. Keep your eyes peeled on our social media and our website for more great tips and ideas.

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For information on how you can become an equine osteopath, click here

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By Chris Bates

Osteopath (DO), Equine Therapist, and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy

What is osteopathy and its history? Let’s take a look!

Key Takeaways 

• Osteopathy was developed during the late 19^th century.
• Using osteopathy on animals gained popularity in the 20^th century.
• Animal osteopathic treatment includes gentle techniques and lifestyle recommendations.

History of Osteopathy

Andrew Taylor Still (1828 – 1917) was a medical Doctor, Minister, Legislator, Inventor, and Author born in Virginia, USA. As a frontier man and serving as a physician in the Civil War, he was strongly affected by the failures of the medicine of the time.

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He lost children and a wife to illness and was unable to help so many using the conventional methods used at the time. Through his deep study of anatomy and the natural world, he developed the philosophy and practice of Osteopathy and began teaching his work to students after the practice showed incredible results.

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Osteopathy developed in line with the laws of the natural world. A patient-centered approach that focused on understanding the configuration of internal and external factors that led to the “condition” of the patient.

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In Osteopathy, we talk about the condition of the patient, not a condition the patient has. If we see why the symptoms are correct, then we see how to resolve the configuration.

‍Osteopathy Today

Osteopathy is used and recognized all over the world and has practitioners who specialize in various spheres such as working with children, pregnancy, headaches, and of course, working with animals.

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Osteopathy started to become popular in the treatment of animals in the 20^th century and is continuing to grow more and more. Pioneers like Stuart McGregor D.O. (LCAO clinical director and lecturer) developed the practice and created training courses.

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As the veterinary profession continues to see the value of Osteopathic care, highly trained and skilled practitioners are in high demand.

Why Animals Are Good Candidates for Osteopathy

Animals are excellent candidates for Osteopathic treatment. Osteopaths are well-versed in the physical, behavioral, emotional, and environmental factors that lead to altered function.

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These factors are specific to each animal and each animal is treated as an individual. Osteopaths take the time to understand the animal as fully as possible to devise not only a treatment plan but also advise owners on safe and effective care.

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Care includes gentle hands-on therapy, advice on feeding and lifestyle, exercise recommendations, and referral to appropriate practitioners such as nutritionists.

Osteopaths always work as a team with the veterinarian and within each country’s legal framework, always consult your veterinarian when you are concerned about your animal’s health.

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You can learn more about Animal Osteopathy by getting in touch with the London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO).

For more information on LCAO’s program in animal osteopathy, click here

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By Siun Griffin

Equine Physiotherapist and LCAO Contributor

London College of Animal Osteopathy instructor, Rachel Pechek, is overcoming the odds in a real heartwarming case. This story shows that with patience, determination, and dedication, it’s possible for some seemingly ‘lost causes’ to have a happy ending.

Let’s start at the beginning.

7 years ago, a lame Standardbred yearling filly named Sweet Sheets entered a Canadian auction ring. Coming from a family of fast horses, she had a lot going against her as her lineage had many known lameness issues.

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In this case, a buyer stepped in and took a chance, determined that Sweet Sheets would “land on her hooves.”  To help her, Sweet Sheet’s owner started researching different therapies.

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During this time, the mare still did not come sound, and many vets thought the problem area was in the lower limbs, but no definitive diagnosis could be pinpointed.

Eager to find the cause, the owner took Sweet Sheets to the USA for a bone scan where a hot spot indicating some kind of trauma was detected on the right sacroiliac, but again no definite issue was found.

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Over the last year, Rachel has been working with Sweet Sheets, who is now 8, and has treated her six times to date. This was the first time an osteopath worked on the horse. During early visits, Rachel assessed her to have severe restriction in the left shoulder and right upper cervicals.

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The right hind also presented issues from lower lumbar compensation. As Rachel says, “All in all, she is a classic type two lesion pattern that Stuart discusses in the LCAO program.” It’s a complicated case indeed.

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In the beginning, Rachel focused on the mare’s front end due to extreme reactions in the hind end from pain. The owner noted that when doing light training with the cart, the mare would swing her hind to the right when asked to go faster, likely to escape the pain.

By the third session, clear improvements were seen. The mare could jog comfortably with no hind end swinging, and her attitude and willingness to work were improving.

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After the fourth session, it was possible to ask the mare for more speed when in the cart. With the pain subsiding, the mare started to enjoy the work and showed her own competitive determination.

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During the 5th and 6th sessions, Rachel now found the mare much more even with nearly equal use of both shoulders. She is doing so well that she is ready to race for the first time in her life. This event will take place in a couple of weeks, so stay tuned!

Sweet Sheets is in a place that most people thought was impossible!

Rachel used OAB techniques when accessing the mare and found that myofascial release was an important starting technique for her recovery journey due to the pain present.

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As Sweet Sheet’s pain subsided, and she made other physical improvements, Rachel was able to apply more OAB to help her recovery progress.

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On her most recent visit to the mare, Rachel helped release a facial restriction, ventral to her lumbar spine, deep within her abdominal cavity.

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When released, the mare looked at Rachel in a way that just showed so much relief. Post-treatment, the owner was delighted to inform Rachel that the mare is now performing at 100% during training!

For more information on how you can become an equine osteopath, click here 

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By Chris Bates,

Osteopath, Horse Trainer, and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy

Spend enough time with horses and no doubt you’ll come across tendon injuries.

Whether mild or serious, many horses will experience pain and lameness stemming from their lower limb in their lifetime.

With equestrian competitions growing more challenging, vets and therapists find themselves facing these problems more frequently.

So why are tendons getting injured? First, let’s take a look at how tendons function.

Horse Tendon Function

The tendons of the horse’s lower leg are made up of strong bands of fibrous tissue that are mostly formed from type 1 collagen.

This densely packed tissue sits in parallel fibers that connect muscle to bone. Tendons and ligaments are the main soft tissues found on the horse’s lower leg.

The angle made by the horse’s fetlocks down to the pedal bone inside the foot creates a tensile structure with the tendons. This structure suspends the weight of the body and holds potential energy like a coiled spring.

This allows for energy efficiency when the horse is in motion as the recoil in those structures supplies some momentum.

What Affects Tendon Health?

Hard ground, temperature, poor nutrition, and trauma will greatly affect tendon health.

Harder ground does not provide enough cushioning and causes extra stretch through tendons.

Another detrimental factor is temperature. The use of boots or bandages while providing impact protection, trap heat in the tendon, putting it at increased risk of injury.

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What Are The Signs and Symptoms of Tendon Injury?

The most noticeable signs of tendon injury are heat and lameness.

Signs vary from very obvious, to subtle changes to the horse’s gait or behavior. The signs of lameness will differ depending on the leg or legs involved.

Tendon injuries occur most often in the front limbs as they support more weight. However, these injuries can still occur in the hind limbs.

Rehabilitating Tendon Injuries

When rehabilitating any tendon injury, we must be aware of risk factors.

Using softer surfaces, assessing nutrient deficiencies, reducing the risk of trauma, and allowing the horse to regulate its temperature as naturally as possible are all essential parts of the tendon rehabilitation process.

Basic Guide To Rehabilitating Tendons

‍0-60 days – The horse is either confined to box rest or a small paddock on its own.