Author Archives: Julia

‍Modern osteopathic techniques used today in animal manual therapy are attributed to the teachings of Stuart McGregor, D.O., a U.K.-based osteopath and Director of Clinical Studies at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO).

Building on his vast knowledge and experience working with animals since 1983, Stuart has developed OSTEOPATHIC ARTICULAR BALANCING (OAB), a safe and effective treatment method rooted in classical osteopathy.

1. OAB is a structural approach to osteopathic assessment, diagnosis, and treatment of many health conditions in equines and canines.
2. The OAB method is a classical, long-lever osteopathic technique that uses gentle mobilization and manipulation to both assess and treat joints, muscles, and fascia with no side effects or adverse reactions.  
3. The OAB method is at the core of any osteopathic treatment. It offers the therapist a protocol or an organized search pattern to find dysfunction and treat it. 
4. OAB helps with common injuries, such as strained tendons and ligaments, and more complex conditions, i.e., arthritis, joint stiffness, and compromised mobility.
5. Osteopathic preparation and treatment optimize performance and competitive longevity in equine and canine sports. OAB treatment prepares tissues before the competition and aids muscle recovery following exertion, preventing and minimizing the incidence of more severe injury. 
6. OAB is highly effective in preserving the quality of life for an aging animal by helping reduce joint pain, strengthen the musculoskeletal system, and increase overall mobility. 
7. Prof. McGregor is the only osteopath who has taught the OAB method to hundreds of animal health professionals, osteopaths, and the veterinary community for 40 years around the world.

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Biopsychosocial Health in Dogs

By Chris Bates, DO, Animal Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

When we look at the health of a patient as an Osteopath, there is more to it than assessing the animal for musculoskeletal anomalies and rubbing backs. Osteopathy has always been a system that considers all of the possible external and internal factors that impact health states.  Patients in Osteopathy are seen as a triune of mind, body, and spirit (Still, 1899/2018); the spirit aspect has much been forgotten in modern Osteopathy (particularly in the human realm) but still plays an equal part in health and wellbeing.

Dogs are very intuitive and emotional creatures. This is something we love about our four-legged companions, but it is also a possible reason for disturbances in their health and well-being. We have all experienced what it’s like to feel like we are getting sick after a particularly stressful week at work or to get aches and pains following an emotional event such as a funeral. These reactions are completely normal and as a result of the interdependent relationship between our minds and bodies. Dogs are very susceptible to emotional change due to their extremely well-developed empathy and attunement to body language.  Dogs evolved close familial bonds and emotional intelligence as an effective survival mechanism and this has made the domestication of dogs so successful and rewarding for both animals and humans (Adam Miklosi, 2016). The problem with any sort of sensitivity is the possibility for something to create a negative outcome via this perceptive pathway.

Let us consider a hypothetical case.

A dog and owner come to see you as an Osteopath and the owner explains that their dog (a 3-year-old Labrador male) has been walking wide behind and their hindquarters seem to stray to the left instead of tracking neatly into the line of the front. Perhaps the most noticeable sign you see as the dog enters your clinic is that they are clearly very nervous and displays a typical fear posture when greeting you.

It is then important to consider what that dog’s posture is like when at home or anywhere else. We would question the owner as to the dog’s usual behaviors and what their interactions are like with people and other animals. Through the case history, we discover that the dog is a rescue and had a very troubled and abusive past before the owners got him. The owner says how he is a very nervous and frightened dog and often shows the posture we see in the clinic.

On physical examination, the dog displays a reduced range of motion in spinal extension in the lumbar region (lower back), reduced hip extension (left more than right), and a sensitive reaction to palpation over the superior stifle region (just above the knee). If we take a look at the picture above of the fear posture and imagine being in this position consistently, then we can certainly see why areas of the body would try to accommodate the posture and alter their structure and function. The lowering of the hind end increases the flexion of the hip and stifle joints, the hip flexors will shorten and neurologically “retune” to maintain that position with less physical effort. The highly tendinous tissue of the quadricep muscles located just above the stifle joint will be stretched regularly and therefore become more reactive to touch.

The spinal region becomes really complex and the fearful flexion of the spine then alters all the other ranges and movements of the spine too. As renowned Osteopath Harrison Fryette (1980) explains in his three spinal laws, flexion of the spine will alter the available range in other planes of movement. The dog may well have begun to rotate and side bend the spine resulting in the non-tracking hind end due to the regular flexion and resultant tension in the spinal flexors and abdominal muscles.

So, we begin to see the trail of clues leading us back down the pathway of these symptoms and come to a hypothesis that the dog’s emotional state has certainly a large part to play in the posture and possible resulting discomfort they feel. Although this is just a hypothetical case, it’s easy to see the basic principles of the biopsychosocial approach to health. This is one of the many things that make Osteopathy such a fascinating and rewarding career, it is like being a holistic detective and seeking the clues to your hypothesis. Obviously, unless you are a qualified behaviorist, this case would also need a referral to behavior specialists to resolve the root cause of this particular problem. As long as the behavior is not dangerous and you have risk assessed if the animal is safe to treat then Osteopathic treatment can still take place; in fact, the resolution of physical manifestations will in turn impact the emotional state of the animal. We know that one part of the triune cannot exist and function without the other and so while we are not treating it behaviorally, we will undoubtedly have an effect upon the mind’s state by interacting with the physical state.

To find out more about the history and principles of Osteopathic practice, click here.

References:

Ádám Miklósi. (2016). Dog behavior, evolution, and cognition (1st ed.). Oxford University Press.

Fryette, H. H. (1980). Principles of osteopathic technique. Carmel, Calif., Academy Of Applied Osteopathy.

Still, A. T. (2018). Philosophy Of Osteopathy. (Original work published 1899)

What is Osteopathy?

By Prof. Stuart McGregor, DO, Animal Osteopath, Director of Clinical Studies at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

Osteopathy is an established, recognized system of diagnosis and treatment that lays its main emphasis on the structural integrity of the body. It is distinctive in the fact that it recognizes much of the pain and disability we suffer stems from abnormalities in the function of the body structure as well as damage caused to it by disease.

Osteopathy uses many of the diagnostic procedures used in conventional medicine assessment and diagnosis. Its main strength, however, lies in the unique way the patient is assessed from a mechanical, functional, and postural standpoint and the manual methods of treatment applied to suit the needs of the individual patient.

What will I do as an animal osteopath?

An animal osteopath treats animals using natural manual therapy techniques. Most animal osteopaths treat horses and dogs, also seeing other companion animals also such as cats and rabbits. Some specialist animal osteopaths treat farm animals, exotic, and zoo animals.

Most of the things that osteopaths treat are physical and structural conditions, helping to relieve pain and discomfort, often involving rehabilitation after injury. Osteopaths are very adept at finding and treating the causes of pain and discomfort.

Many animals that perform sport or rigorous physical exercise, such as racehorses, show jumping horses and ponies, and working dogs, benefit from a visit by an animal osteopath. Many performance horses and dogs are also helped in their preparation for racing or competition.

Communication is important, as it is frequently necessary to communicate with veterinarians and other animal healthcare professionals. Animal osteopaths commonly work alongside vets.

Osteopathy for animals is becoming very popular among animal trainers and owners. It is a fast-growing profession.

What is Osteopathic Articular Balancing?

Osteopathic Articular Balancing (OAB) is a branch of osteopathy involving the gentle manipulation and mobilization of joints and muscles. It is a structural approach to osteopathic diagnosis and treatment.

It includes articulation and mobilization of all joints of the body including the legs, shoulders, hips, neck, back, and pelvis. Body Adjustment helps reduce stiffness in muscles and joints and helps maintain flexibility. It helps to improve blood supply and drainage from all tissues and helps maintain nerve supply from the vertebral joints. It can be used both before and after exercise. OBA helps promote physical health, improving performance and helping to reduce the incidence of injury.

Based on sound principles of biomechanics, it forms a strong foundation for a treatment and rehabilitation program.

For more information on how you can become an Animal Osteopath, clickhere

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By Siun Griffin, Equine Physiotherapist and Community Manager at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

Following on from Chris Bates’s article, Saving at the Stables – Horse Ownership in an Economic Crisis, here is another way to help you save money – reproofing horse blankets.

Many of us, myself included, tend to replace our horse’s outdoor blankets when they get dirty or are no longer fully waterproof. This is a quick fix, but definitely not the most economical.

By reproofing the blanket we might get another year or more out of it for a fraction of the cost. It may take a little time and advance planning, but it’s fairly simple.

Here are the steps to follow to get your horse blanket back in top shape.

Step 1 – Wash your blanket.

A clean blanket will get the best results. If you use a blanket washing service, they might even include re-waterproofing as an add-on. Get this done in the spring and your blanket will be ready to go when the cold comes back. This is the easiest way to reproof.

If you don’t use a service or the one you use doesn’t have this option wash your horse blanket the best you can and let it dry fully. Try to use a soap designed for horse blankets; many equestrian brands offer this. Never use fabric softener as this will end up damaging the fabric.

Step 2 – Choose Your Waterproofing Product

There are a number of different waterproofing products available that you can get from your favourite tack shop. Nikwax is a popular product, but you can find sprays as well.

Step 3 – Apply The Waterproofer

To use a washing product like Nikwax, place your clean blanket in the washing machine with no other products. It doesn’t have to be dry, so you can do this step after your cleaning wash.

Follow the cycle and temperature instructions on the product label.

For some washing products you don’t have to use a washing machine, you can also do it by hand. Fill a large enough, clean container with warm water and the recommended amount of waterproofing liquid. Wearing rubber gloves, mix it in.

Then place your clean blanket into the water, moving it around, so it is fully covered in the mixture. Leave it to soak for around 2 hours. Finally, rinse the blanket and hang to dry.

Another option for washing products is to sponge it on the blanket by hand.

The other type of common product is spray-on. Hang your blanket outside. It is a good idea to wear a facemask and gloves when doing this as the fumes can be pretty unpleasant and hard to get off your hands.

Using a spray product is time-consuming as you should add multiple coats to get the best results, but it’s necessary to leave 24 hours between coats.

A Few Blanket Care Tips

In addition to reproofing your horse rug, there are a few things you can do to help extend its lifespan.

• Don’t power wash your horse blanket, this will damage the fabric making it even leakier.
• Also avoid using stiff brushes on the outside of the blanket, as this too will cause too much damage to the material
• Make sure your blankets are dry when storing them, so any dampness doesn’t form mould.
• Clean and re-waterproof your blankets at least once a year.
• The best time to re-proof horse blankets is in the spring when they are no longer needed, so they’re ready for the following winter.

By Chris Bates, DO, Equine Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

There is a lot of talk in the equine industry about hoof care and the benefits of barefoot trimming. Many top riders are now competing at the very top levels of equine sport with barefoot horses.

Both Peder Frederickson and Henrik Von Eckermann rode their horses barefoot in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, winning show jumping team gold. Top Grand Prix Dressage trainers Shannon and Stephan Peters are avid converts to the benefits of barefoot hoof care after seeing huge positive changes in their own horses including freer shoulders and straighter movements.

Physical Effects of Horse Shoes

Through an Osteopathic lens, barefoot trimming makes a lot of sense. Adding an artificial object to the body will inevitably alter the natural function. Proprioception (perception of the position and movement of the body) will be changed every time a new set of shoes is fitted.

While the hoof is a relatively hard structure and designed to carry immense forces, it still contains incredibly complex structures for feeling the world around the horse.

Osteopathy recognizes the body as a dynamic and changing phenomenon, one that alters and adjusts in relation to the forces placed upon it. Fundamentally changing those forces by the addition of shoes will of course fundamentally change the biomechanics and the function of the body above them.

Hoof Function and Osteopathy

As we say in Osteopathy, “Structure and Function are reciprocally interrelated”. The hoof’s function as a vascular pump plays an important role in maintaining the health of the tissues in the distal limbs.

The compression and release of pressure when moving aids in the venous return of blood and the lymphatic drainage of the limb. Structures like the lateral cartilages aid the fluid dynamics of the extremities (see our courses for details on anatomy).

From the early pioneers of Osteopathy to modern practitioners, the importance of adequate arterial flow has been promoted greatly, as has the drainage and the removal of obstructions to that flow.

Osteopathy and Hoof Observations

In my career, I have noticed a marked difference in the hoof health of horses who have their natural fluid dynamics uninterrupted. One case springs to mind of a TB x Gelding I had been treating for almost a year when the owners decided to try going barefoot.

My recommendation had simply been to get a second opinion on his feet as there were a number of issues. The farrier had been shoeing the other horses at the same stables and so these owners used him for convenience.

The gelding had a history of reduced stride length and reaching of the back when ridden or when trotting on the lunge. His canter was often disunited and lacked any lateral bend, in fact, the canter often broke to a trot and was downhill.

His feet were long, leaving the hoof pastern axis broken and placing excess strain onto the suspensory apparatus and tendons. The heels were contracted and there was no contact between the frog and the ground.

Unsurprisingly, the horse’s hooves were dry and cracked and he was often dropping shoes in the field. There had been a history of mild lameness in the summer months that I had assumed was due to the increase in forces due to harder ground.

The owners were so often slapping lotions and oils onto the hoof wall to avoid cracks and dehydration that they were quite the experts in what was available. In my role as a therapist, I am not at liberty to dictate shod or barefoot, I can make recommendations and explain the reasons but unfortunately, it ends there.

I made every effort to educate the owners on how the hoof formation was likely leading to many of the horse’s issues (often being listened to intently by other owners at the stables). This is where a practitioner who is both a Barefoot Trimmer and Animal Osteopath would be placed to make huge positive changes in the animal’s well-being.

After much coercion, I managed to get a colleague of mine (a Barefoot specialist) to come to the stables and give a talk. This talk really did the trick and I attended to give my thoughts too.

The owners of the TB X in question made the switch. As with any horse, the changes were gradual and monitored frequently while the trimmer helped the horse transition.

Every time I attended to treat the horse from that point, I saw the forelimbs standing more plum, shoulder development increased, lateral bend improved and hoof health was great.

His hooves no longer needed oils and gels and were crack-free. The horse went on to reach a good standard in novice dressage and the owners are happier than ever.

Combining Barefoot Trimming With Osteopathy

So, if Barefoot Trimmers can make such great changes, why train in Osteopathy too?

Well, if every condition and issue stemmed only from a primary condition in the feet, then we wouldn’t need any therapists.

Unfortunately, trimmers will come across horses that have a descending chain of impacts that could stem from spinal restrictions, muscular strain, systemic health concerns, or acute injuries.

Osteopaths have discussed the importance of “Primary Lesions” for many years. The reality in clinical practice is that patients want to feel better and if that requires coming at a problem from more than one angle at once then so be it.

In my own practice I can address different angles as I am a human Osteopath too, this means that if there is a riding issue that is being caused by the rider, I can address the stresses on both rider and horse.

Being that hoof health is paramount to horses’ well-being, having the ability to address the body as a whole including the adjusting of hoof health and mechanics is a powerful combination.

Ultimately there will be horses who require remedial shoeing and this is always going to be important. Osteopathy as a discipline is most concerned with patients as individuals so I would never suggest that all horses can or should be barefoot all the time.

Osteopathy also values the body’s own ability to accommodate stressors and allostatic load and seeks to provide the best environment for it to do this. The wider the scope of the practitioner, the more avenues for providing this favorable environment there are.

Classical Osteopaths would say that although conditions may be unpleasant, they are never wrong; the body’s state is a result of intrinsic and external factors and can only be optimized by removal of obstruction or perversion of natural structure and processes.

Using the Osteopathic mindset “Why is this condition correct?” really changes animal health and aims to address the “state” of the animal rather than palliate symptoms. These values are shown in the principles of Barefoot Trimming too.

For information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

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By Chris Bates, Osteopath (DO), Equine Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO).

We’re back with Part II of Preparing for your Equine Professional. Let’s start with….

Trainers and Instructors

Here in the UK, one of the first things my trainer wanted was a cup of tea (could we be any more British?), but there are plenty of things you can do to make sure you get the most from their visits.

If you are having a lesson then you can really help yourself by doing a bit of warming up before you get on.

Many people will have been prepping their horse or mucking out so you might feel limber but some simple stretching can really improve your performance in the saddle and avoid those aching muscles afterwards.

One of the big issues with a rider’s position, especially on the flatwork, is tight hip flexors. A simple standing stretch can really help.

Hold onto something steady like a stable door with one hand and take hold of your ankle with the other, draw the lifted foot up towards your buttocks, and stand straight with your hips tucked under you.

You should feel a nice stretch down the front of your hips and thighs. Hold this for around 20 seconds and repeat on the other leg.

It doesn’t matter what discipline you ride; you are bound to have heard the phrase “heels down” at some point. Ankle mobility and calf suppleness are very useful to maintain the depth of the seat and keep you safe when jumping.

Try sitting down and alternate between pointing your toes and lifting them towards you (both ankles). You might need to take your riding boots off as they can restrict ankle movement.

Your spine needs to remain tall yet mobile when riding. Stiffness in your back can hurt you and translate to your horse’s movement too.

Try some simple spinal mobilization before your lesson. A spinal roll is a great way to wake up your back, stand with your feet together or very close, tuck your chin, and slowly roll down towards your knees a bit at a time.

Some people like to breathe out slowly as they do this to support the movement. Breathe in as you rewind the movement back up to tall again.

A gentle side bend can stretch your back but also mobilize your shoulders. With your feet around shoulder width or just over, incline your body over to the side and let your arm raise over your head.

Feel the stretch down your sides, through your ribs, and the length of your arm. Repeat both sides as needed.

A twisting exercise also helps with ridden work as rotation of your trunk is very important in being able to move smoothly on a bend with your horse.

This also helps you become mindful about twisting the wrong way when riding. Simple awareness can transform your sessions.

Raise your arms to shoulder height or clasp them together then rotate your body to the right and then the left. Feel how this alters your pelvis position and weight distribution and become mindful of how that will feel to your horse.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

By Chris Bates, Equine Therapist and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy (LCAO)

There is an old saying, “It takes an army to raise a child”. Any horse owner will tell you that it wouldn’t be far from the truth to say the same can be said for keeping horses.

Owning a horse is a huge responsibility but one that pays off big time when you do it right. Horses need a lot of very specialist care, from farrier to vet, trainer to saddler. In addition to hiring the best available professionals for your horse, owners also need to know what those experts need from them.

No Foot, No Horse

We take our feet for granted, but horses’ feet (at least domesticated horses) need to be regularly checked and trimmed/shod. The regularity of a farrier needs to visit will depend on several factors including seasonal hoof changes, remedial shoeing, and even breed of horse.

During the warmer, drier months, horses’ feet will grow faster to accommodate harder ground and the natural wearing of the foot.

During these warmer times your farrier might recommend using a hoof moisturizer to help maintain suppleness in the hoof wall and sole, this can help avoid foot soreness and cracking.

Another easy trick to help your horse’s feet when it’s very dry is to submerge the foot into water (in a safe rubber bucket is best) for around 5-10 minutes twice a week.

When winter comes around, hoof growth can slow considerably meaning that in some horses they may go longer between visits. However, the damp conditions can raise the risk of bacterial hoof infections and hoof wall separation.

Always ensure hooves have been picked out correctly to avoid breeding grounds for infection. Some antibacterial gels and sprays can be useful if mild infection occurs.

Always call your vet if signs of inflammation or lameness are present. For safety, there should always be adequate space for the farrier to work on flat, even ground if possible.

Although some farriers will not mind the horse tied, it might be safer to have a handler holding the horse during the visit.

Ideally, the foot should be clean and dry when the farrier arrives, this might not always be possible but catching field kelp horses early to allow any mud to dry and get brushed off is a good practice.

If you need to hose the horse’s legs prior to the farrier coming, then try to dry them with a towel as wet feet are slippery and risk accidents when shoeing and trimming.

Try to ensure the area is quiet and undisturbed by other horses as distractions can lead to fidgeting and this only makes the job harder.

Therapists

As an equine therapist, I’ve lost count of the times I’ve turned up to treat and the horse is fresh out of the rain and covered in thick wet mud.

You wouldn’t go for a massage straight after doing a military assault course- you would take a shower first. For any therapy where either a hand or a machine is going to be applied, the horse needs to be clean and dry.

Electro-therapies won’t be as effective through a layer of muck. Hands can’t palpate effectively. It’s not expected that your horse should be freshly bathed and free of dust, even the cleanest of horses still have natural oils and exfoliated skin in the coat. However, your horse will benefit most from the visit if they are dry and groomed. It’s important that someone is there to handle the horse. This is for the safety of everyone involved and to help keep the horse happy during the session.

The therapist will likely need to see the horse walk and trot up to assess movement and so have a space where this is possible.

Ideally, the trot-up area should be a straight flat area giving about 15-20 meters. However, shorter space is often adequate.

If the area is free of distractions, then even better. This allows the horse to move naturally without looking around as movement will change the body.

The handler needs to use a sufficient length of rope to let the horse carry their own forehand and not interfere with their way of going. The treatment space can be a stable or wash-down area, as long as there is protection from the elements.

Generally, it is best to have only the handler and therapist in the vicinity as this gives safety space and calms the horse. Take out haynets and any other items that might get in the way or be a distraction.

If treating in a stable then having the door unbolted means that the handler or therapist can get out in an emergency easily. Also, make sure the stable is clean so your therapist can work without standing in the muck.

The therapist is likely to ask about feeds and medications/supplements, so be sure you know what the horse is taking daily and details about their daily regime.

Many therapists prefer that the horse be ‘cold’ for its evaluation. This means that the horse has been resting in its stable for at least an hour and not just after being ridden or having just come off the horse walker.

This will help the therapist make the most accurate evaluation of the horse as the muscles haven’t stretched out or been warmed up, which can sometimes give a biased feel or look.

Stay tuned for Part II of “Preparing for Your Equine Professional” coming soon! For more information on how to become an Equine Osteopath, click here

Poison Hemlock

There are several varieties of Hemlock, and it is known by a number of different names.

These are just a few:

• Spotted Hemlock
• Poison Parsley
• Nebraska Fern
• California Fern
• Winter Fern
• Wild Carrot
• Cicuta
• Snake Weed

This plant is highly toxic and contains neurotoxins, the most troublesome being Conine. When ingested, symptoms appear quickly, often within 15 minutes but can take 1 to 2 hours.

Any part of the plant is toxic if eaten, and it affects the brain, nervous system, and neuromuscular junction.

Symptoms of Hemlock poisoning include:

• Muscle tremors
• Salivation
• Lack of coordination
• Respiration rate increase
• Symptoms of colic
• Seizures
• Dilated pupils
• Breathing difficulties

Red Maple

While red maple trees are beautiful, they are not safe for horses. Horses are at most risk during the fall or after stormy weather that brings leaves down from the trees.

Dying or wilted leaves contain a toxin that attacks red blood cells when eaten, which causes severe anemia and the loss of the blood’s oxygen-carrying ability. As little as 1.5 lbs of eaten leaves can cause severe poisoning. The toxin has yet to be identified.

Early detection and veterinary treatment can, in some cases, save the horse from death. Prevention is the best policy!

Symptoms occur from 18 hours to 5 days after the horse has eaten the leaves. They can include:

• Weakness
• Dark brown or red urine
• Depression
• Lack of appetite
• Yellow mucus membranes
• Increased heart rate

Water Hemlock

Like Poison Hemlock, Water Hemlock is often fatal. If a horse survives past eight hours without the added complication of seizures, it has a better chance of surviving.

Water Hemlock’s most concentrated area of toxin is in its roots. It tends to grow in wet areas, and it is easy for horses to pull up and access the roots.

It is common for signs of poisoning to go unnoticed, and sadly many horses that ingest it are found dead. Subtle signs include twitching in muscles and around the face. Seizures can then follow.

If you suspect a plant is any kind of hemlock, be extra careful when removing it. Wear gloves and don’t inhale it.

Yew

All parts of the Yew tree are extremely toxic for horses, and eating just a small amount is fatal. According to Rossdale’s equine vets, it can kill a horse in just 5 minutes after they eat it!

It contains two highly dangerous alkaloids – taxine A and B. There is no treatment or cure. Yew kills very fast. Signs of yew poisoning can include loss of coordination, breathing difficulty, and muscle trembling.

Often the horse will experience sudden death, with many horses found with the plant still in their mouth.

Don’t let this plant anywhere near your horses!

Bracken Fern

While toxic, a horse needs to eat a bigger quantity of the plant over a couple of months. Most horses won’t eat it as they don’t like the taste. However, the odd horse will really like it.

Signs of bracken fern poisoning are neurological. They can include muscle spasms, stumbling/staggering, circling, and seizures.

Thankfully, if caught early enough, the horse can be treated with thiamine by the vet. The best practice is to remove it from your land if you see it.

Avocado

Avocados contain persin, which is toxic to horses. Poisoning can present with several different symptoms, including:

• colic
• breathing difficulty
• heart rhythm irregularity
• swelling around the face
• neurologic dysfunction

All parts, the fruit, stems, and leaves, are toxic. Ingesting even a tiny amount is fatal. Stick to carrots and apples, and never feed a horse avocado.

Oleander

Oleander is fatal if eaten by horses. Just of note, it is also toxic to other animals and people. Death happens fairly quickly, within 8 to 10 hours. The component of the plant that causes poisoning is oleandrin. This will cause cardiac arrhythmia.

Only a handful of ingested leaves can cause death but the entire plant is poisonous.

Yellow Star Thistle

Yellow Star Thistle is also known as golden starthistle, St. Barnaby’s thistle, yellow cockspur, and cotton-tip thistle.

It is an invasive non-native plant found mostly in the western half of the US, south-central Europe. The Middle East, and Asia Minor.

It causes what is known as ‘chewing disease’ in horses. This disease is also caused by horses ingesting a similar plant called Russian knapweed.

It is a neurotoxin, most likely repin. However, the exact toxin is yet to be discovered. Poisoning builds up over time with repeated ingestion until the toxicity threshold is reached. The toxin builds up in the brain and causes neural tissue.

Symptoms include:

• Anxiousness
• Confusion
• Difficulty eating and drinking
• Hypertonicity of muzzle muscles
• Tongue hanging out
• Constant chewing motions

As the disease progresses horses suffer muscle paralysis which prevents them from eating and drinking properly. The neurological damage is not treatable and euthanasia is the humane option.

Johnsongrass

Johnsongrass causes cyanide poisoning, teratogenesis, and neuropathy. Horses that ingest Johnsongrass are more likely to suffer teratogenesis and neuropathy than cyanide poisoning.

Poisoning occurs over a few weeks.

Symptoms include:

• Ataxia
• Lack of coordination
• Urine dribbling
• Hind leg and tail paralysis
• Abortion in pregnant mares

Not all horses are affected by eating this plant. The toxicity threshold is not fully understood. While not always fatal, horses have a poor prognosis, especially if nerve damage has occurred. If signs are noticed before serious nerve damage occurs the vet may be able to help the horse.

It is best to prevent this plant from infiltrating your land and hay to avoid any risks.

Locoweed

The entire locoweed plant is toxic to horses. The component associated with this plant that causes neurotoxicity is swainsonine. It also goes by the name Lambert’s crazy weed. Many horses find it palatable.

Symptoms include:

• Ataxia
• Congenital defects in foals or fetal death
• Temperament changes
• Depression
• Difficulty standing
• Unpredictable dangerous behavior

Often stopping horses from eating the plant can result in recovery but any nervous system damage is permanent. However, once horses get a taste for the plant they will seek it out.

Milkweed

Milkweed is usually not a plant that horses will avoid when grazing or if it makes its way into their hay. The toxins include a neurotoxin and cardiac glycoside.

It is often fatal and horses usually die within 24 to 72 hours.

Symptoms include:

• Colic
• Seizures
• Lack of coordination
• Irregular heartbeat
• Pupil dilation
• Lethargy

If poisoning is caught quickly enough, a vet may be able to save the horse. Always ensure your hay is from a reputable source, as many cases arise from milkweed-contaminated hay.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

By Chris Bates Osteopath (DO), Equine Therapist, and Lecturer at London College of Animal Osteopathy

We are back again for more winter horse care advice. So, put those thermals on and grab your hot drink, it’s time to read.

Is my horse cold?

It is a common sight to see people touching their horse’s ears and legs when checking to see how warm they are. The problem is that it can be very misleading as to how comfortable your horse really is.

Horses are very good at regulating their body temperature. They have an excellent range of methods to regulate especially when they are not clipped or rugged. Horses can feel really quite comfortable down as far as 5 degrees (Celsius) if they have a full winter coat and are not rugged.

Below this temperature, they can use internal and external methods to keep warm. Horses can alter the blood flow to their extremities and places where heat is lost easily, like their ears.

The conservation of blood to the internal organs helps to keep digestion functioning properly and avoids cold weather causing colic. This is why touching legs and ears is not a good indicator of a horse’s body temperature.

The horse has a large part of the digestive system called the Cecum. This contains billions of bacteria and protozoa that enable the horse to digest the cellulose and the fiber of their diet.

This process of fermentation and digestion generates heat and is an important way for horses to regulate their temperature.

The microorganisms that perform this part of digestion require a specific pH balance to survive. We can help to ensure the right pH environment for these beneficial bugs.

One way is to avoid feeding excessive starch as this leads to an acidic environment in the gut. Grain feeds should be little and often rather than large meals less often. Ample access to forage such as hay is imperative to gut health.

The death of gut microbiome organisms causes the release of endotoxin that can cause colic and laminitis, so it’s important to watch out for signs of these conditions when changing feeding regimes with the season.

Remember that you’re not feeling the cold the way your horse does. We are rather naked animals, hence all the layers of clothing. Horses, on the other hand, are very well protected by their coat.

Piloerector muscles along the hair follicles can lift the horse’s coat away from the skin, trapping air underneath and allowing that air to heat up. This forms a layer of warmth that most rug designers can only dream of replicating.

When we rug our horses, we essentially press these hairs back down, and so the insulation is all down to the rug (it had better be a good rug).

The horse’s coat is even equipped with different length hairs, some that are finer and insulating, and some that lay longer to help moisture and rain to run off the body, keeping the skin dry and warm.

So, a better indicator of how warm your horse feels is to run your hand deep under the coat toward the skin around the vital organs of the trunk. However, this still isn’t an ideal measure.

Shivering is completely normal behavior if it’s very cold, but if you see excessive shivering consistently then you need to look at how to help your horse stay warm. Loss of weight is an obvious and more urgent indicator of feeling the cold. Horses will need to dive into those fat stores to stay warm if they are not getting adequate feed or shelter.

If your horse is stabled part-time then you might notice your horse standing at the field gates. This is a clear sign that they want in.

Stabling is obviously more sheltered and drier. It gives the opportunity to monitor feeding more accurately but remember that they won’t be able to move around as much and movement is one-way horses generate body heat.

If your horse is spending hours standing at the gate, though, they are not eating and risk colic or weight loss. Muddy gateways also increase the risk of skin irritations like mud fever and hoof damage like thrush.

Skin issues

When the weather is colder and wetter, the skin becomes more prone to irritations and infections. A very common condition is mud fever.

This is a bacterial infection caused by the bacteria getting into the often chapped and damp weakened skin around fetlocks and pasterns.

If a horse has mites, then this can increase the chances of mud fever as the skin can get broken, allowing the bacteria in. Treating for any sign of mites earlier in the season is useful. Signs include stamping, scratching, sensitivity to picking up feet, flaking skin, and redness.

Signs of mud fever vary. They include:

• Broken skin
• Crusty scabs
• Pus and discharge
• Swelling and heat
• Sometimes lameness, if left untreated
• Soreness when you try to touch the areaIt’s important to treat early as mud fever can lead to worse infection, such as cellulitis, which can be very dangerous.
  

  Prevention:

  If there are very muddy areas in your grazing, you can try moving to drier ground. You can also try using straw to cover wet areas. There are also special mats you can install in field gateways to prevent mud.

  Instead of washing mud off when you bring your horse in, try leaving the mud to dry and then brushing it off. This means the horse’s skin doesn’t get any wetter.

  Use barrier creams to keep the mud away from the skin. These must only be applied to dry clean skin, however as otherwise, they actually help bacterial growth by trapping moisture against the skin.

  Treatment:

• Washing mud fever regularly with an antibacterial wash such as Hibiscrub and warm water (drying the legs afterwards).
• Removing loose scabs.
• Clipping leg hair away allows for more effective treatment and a drier environment. Especially for horses with thick feathers.
• Antibacterial creams while the horse is off grazing (in stables).
• Stronger medications can be acquired from your vet.

If your horse shows any signs of lameness, obvious swelling in the legs, fever, malaise, or hair loss, then contact your vet. Remember also that this condition can occur on the belly and other areas like the back, although this is often called rain scald.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here

By Siun Griffin, Equine Physiotherapist and LCAO Community Manager

Using ice or cold water on horses for injuries is nothing new. But it certainly has become more sophisticated in the past 10 years.

Cold therapy not only helps treat existing injuries but it can also be used to aid recovery and reduce soreness.

Why is it used, when is it used, and how does it work?

The Main Purpose Of Ice Therapy For Horses

In simple terms, using ice or cold water helps reduce swelling and inflammation. It can also slow down the inflammation process and reduce the damage it causes to tissues.

Reducing swelling and inflammation will help lessen any pain your horse is experiencing from its injury. And, of course, the cold will help remove heat from the affected area.

Key effects of ice of cold:

• Reduce swelling
• Slow or reduce inflammation
• Restrict blood flow
• Pain relief
• Reduce heat

Is Ice or Cold Water Better

Ice or ice water is always better than just cold water. Generally, water from the hose is not cold enough. However, if that’s your only option, then it is better than nothing.

We’ve all been there – standing holding the hose as we let cold water run over a leg for several minutes!

Thankfully, today we have products designed to apply ice to horses more easily than with a hose or convincing a horse to stand in a bucket of ice water.

Of course, with a little creativity, you can put together your own DIY ice wraps in a few minutes. More on that in a minute.

When To Use Cold Therapy

Rick Mitchell, DVM, MRCVS, Dipl. ACVSMR, of Fairfield Equine Associates in Newtown, CT says, “If you are presented with an acutely swollen, hot limb, ice is never an inappropriate initial therapy.”

It is pretty hard to go wrong when deciding to apply cold to an injury or suspected sore spot on your horse. However, you need to make sure you do it correctly. More on that in a minute.

When in doubt, always ask your vet if icing is ok for your horse. While, in most cases, icing will cause no problems, there are some contraindications.

Dr. Brendan Furlong, MVB, MRCVS, of B. W. Furlong and Associates ice, is contraindicated for the following:

• The skin is broken
• Possible infection at the site of the injury
• There is a laceration to part of the hoof
• If water softens a hoof injury area, it could make it worse
• Take extra caution when using ice on young horses and foals as they have thinner skin, which can freeze more quickly

How To Use Ice Therapy

Whichever way you decide to use ice or cold therapy on your horse, there are a few simple rules you need to follow.

Always ice for 20 minutes and no longer than 30 minutes at a time. There are two exceptions to this rule. For some acute injuries, it is better to ice for only 10 minutes with 20-minute breaks and frequent repetitions.

Icing for over 30 minutes will cause a rebound effect in which the horse’s body sends a rush of blood to the area negating the effect of the cold. Your ice will also ‘warm’ up, no longer being effective.

You also want to limit the time to prevent damage to the skin. Leave at least 30 minutes between icing sessions.

The other big exception to icing time is for laminitis or when the horse seems to be on the verge of developing it. One of the main treatment protocols in these cases is to ice the feet. The longer, the better, as it will help reduce the onset of laminitis or reduce the severity.

Icing Precautions and Tips

To protect the skin, always place something, like a thin towel, between the ice and the skin. The cold therapy will be more effective if you wet this towel in advance.

Methods To Ice Your Horse

The old-fashioned ways to apply cold therapy are cold hosing or filling a bucket with water and ice. These are, of course, still useful, but getting a horse to stand in a bucket of ice water doesn’t always go so well!

Today, you can buy specially designed ice boots that allow you to easily apply this treatment. These are great and super easy to use but can be expensive.

For a smaller budget, there are some DIY versions you can make.

Fill ice pop sheets with water or water and some rubbing alcohol and freeze them. The rubbing alcohol will prevent the sheets from completely freezing so you can shape them around your horse’s leg.

Place a wet towel over the area, then your frozen sheet, and secure it with a polo bandage or duct tape.

You can also do something similar with large, sturdy ziplock bags.

One method I really like is ice-cup massage. This is a great way to treat large sore muscles in the body. Partially fill a paper cup with water and freeze it.

When you want to use it, peel off sections of the cup and massage it over the area you want to treat for 10 to 15 minutes. As you are constantly moving, you don’t need a barrier towel.

Final Thoughts

Ice is a wonderful, simple, and inexpensive way to manage your sports horse or include it in injury treatment.

While it can’t completely prevent injury, it can potentially reduce the effects, help with soreness and recovery, and reduce inflammation.

This, combined with veterinary guidance and treatment from your osteopath, physio, or massage therapist, can help your horse stay comfortable and happy.

For more information on how you can become an Equine Osteopath, click here